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Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,006 Posts1,055,268 Members48,418 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 113 Member | | Member Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 113 | All- this winter I will be removing all of the body panels from 1/2 ton 54 long bed but will leave the cab and doors in place. I have rebuilt all the mechanicals and primed some parts. Next spring I would like to clean the frame and undercarriage parts, then apply a rust inhibitor paint, prime and paint all in black (all while assembled). In parallel I'll be working on the body parts that will be taken-off to get them ready to re-aasemble.
What can I use to "chemically" clean most of the rust off of the frame without damaging brake hoses/lines, etc.? (Thought about a powerwasher with a degreaser) What rust inhibitor would work well in my situation (I'll probably brush it on or buy a cheapo wagner paint sprayer?
Thanks!
Bruce (I love My Truck) Miller
1954 5 Window 3100 Chevy Pickup - Driver 1929 **** Model A Pickup - Restoration
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 164 | Bruce, Hit the Tech Tips page and read the Zero Rust article under Paint, Rust and Body Work for a starter. Bruce Palmer [email protected] | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 | For the frame and anything underneath nothing beats Zero Rust. The stuff is hard as nails. Brushes on great too.
54 3100 with 235 62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 24 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 24 | also i am thinking of a stuff called POR 15 and i have talked to several people on the phone and it seems to be as good or better than Zero Rust but a little more pricey well just try what you want though
1940 1/2 ton chevy
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 113 Member | | Member Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 113 | All, thanks for the tips. I'm not really concerned about a quality look to the frame paint job, but don't want it to look like crap either. I do a pretty good job with a spray can. Could I use a pump sprayer likle you would use to stain your deck with zero rust? I thought I would spray the frame down with muratic acid first,then power wash, let dry and the try the pump/tank sprayer. If the tank sprayer would not work would a Wagner power sprayer work with zero rust? Again, this is the frame and under-carriage so I'm interested in cleaning and preserving with a nice gloss or satin black finish.
Thanks for all your help!!
Bruce (I love My Truck) Miller
1954 5 Window 3100 Chevy Pickup - Driver 1929 **** Model A Pickup - Restoration
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 164 | Bruce, I don't have any experience with the types of seals in your average tank sprayer (re: thinners eating them) but then again it's your tank sprayer in jeopardy. Know what I'm saying? Just might be a good time to test that theory, on yours...... ;^) I have done some research on the Wagner thing several years ago and if memory serves they didn't have a tip size big enough to handle the high solids of ZR. I will say that ZR brushes on like nobody's business and if kept thinned some, it flows out very nicely too....... FWIW Happy holidays y'all, pick one, any one. Bruce Palmer [email protected] | | |
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