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#1142158 12/31/2015 8:28 PM
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Q
New Guy
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i have a 235 engine with 2 studs on the top of the head through valve cover which makes me think it is a babbitt bearing engine, but the block does not have the 3 hole stamped cover plate underneath the exhaust manifold, could i have a full pressure engine with a head from a low pressure engine or vise versa, the engine was rebuilt years ago.just picked it up for free.

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M
'Bolter
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Welcome to the Stovebolt wave

Post your casting numbers (the Block numbers are found on passenger side down low, the head numbers are under the valve cover) and the serial number stamped on the flat machined surface at the distributor and others will be along to tell you what you have.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD
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BC
1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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The 2-stud valve cover is an easy swap to a later model engine- - - -just install long studs instead of bolts at the correct set of rocker arm shaft supports. It's a pretty common way of trying to make a 55-62 engine look like a 216/early 235.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
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Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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As Mike B posted, find and post all your block and head codes and people will help you find out what block and head you have.

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5
Renaissance Man
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Look for captains bars cast into the block above the starter (none on the other side of the block). This would be a quick indicator of a '53 full pressure 235 car engine which originally came with a Powerglide transmission. It came with the two acorn nut valve covers.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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New Guy
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here are some numbers i found on the block and head.

Engine
serial # 0347548t54Z (next to distributor)
casting # 3835911 right above oil pan on passenger side

Head
casting # 3701887 GM5 outside of valve cover driver side
other # B18 913 066 570 in a group on passenger side
other # CON13 303 inside of valve cover

anyone know what engine i have.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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T54Z
T = Tonawanda engine plant
54 = 1954
Z = regular 235 engine in a car (not Corvette)

3835911 = 1954-55st 235 block
that code was also used on October 1953 and later 1953 Corvettes.


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Extreme Gabster
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According to www.inliners.org's casting # chart, 3835911 block was used for '53-'55 235s.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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is it a full oil pressure engine? what about the head? it only has the two studs bolts through the top of the valve cover. i read that if it has that type of valve cover it is not a full oil pressure.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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3701887 = 1953 235 truck head
- it most likely does not have holes in the head for the 4-side-hole valve cover?

303 - date casting code (inside valve cover)?
Maybe someone can correct or interpret this?
If it is a date code:
3 = ? 3rd or March
0 = ? ? ?
3 = ? 1953

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Hey guys. This is just about the best post I've read in quite some time. I learned a lot and will probably refer back to it from time to time. Steven


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton ~ Red Truck

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would it have the babbitt bearings ? i am looking to rebuild this motor, but want to make sure of what i think i have. i have not tore it down yet, also it has a tag on it
Schedler
cyl 030
rods 010
mains 010
i know it has been bored 30 over rods and mains under, my assumption is if they did all that then it must be a high pressure engine with out babbitt bearings.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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It is a high pressure, insert rod-bearings, engine.

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will a power glide transmission mount up to this?

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Most likely.

What year truck do you want to put it into?

You might have to consider the rear engine mount and/or a rear transmission mount, depending on the year of the truck.

A Powerglide transmission was not available on a truck until around 1959/60.

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it's a project truck, 1949 Chevy 3100 but it's on a 1992 Chevy S10 frame so modifications are expected.

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J
'Bolter
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If you're going automatic and frame, thus not concerned about originality, why not go for a modern overdrive tranny?


1951 3100
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i dont know much about the drive trains, so i am just looking into what i have on hand. i have emailed Tom Langdon and he said the same thing and sent me a chart with engine trans and rearend setups. really nice information. first thing i have to do is see if the 235 i have is even good, if it is then i will either get a 2004R or 700R4 trans, based on Tom's chart he sent me.
thanks for the advice.

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Renaissance Man
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A 235 with an auto transmission on an S-10 frame? Haven't seen that done yet. You are a maverick! We are going to need to see some pictures when you are done!
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Wrench Fetcher
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Originally Posted by tclederman
As Mike B posted, find and post all your block and head codes and people will help you find out what block and head you have.


Originally Posted by BC59


From what this link says, all engines with the square, 4-bolt valve cover are high pressure engines. Is that correct?

Last edited by Truckasaurus44; 01/07/2016 10:24 PM.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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That is correct.

Just to complicate this unnecessarily, not all high pressure engines came from the factory with 4 screw/bolt (1954-1962) valve covers.

1953 235 engines were 2-bolt and some were high pressure (Powerglide 235s, including Corvette engines), and most 1953 235s were low pressure (manual transmission car 235s and all truck 235s).

Also, if you looked at the Puget Sound link above, you saw there were three styles of 4-screw valve covers.

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Wrench Fetcher
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I guess my 1953 2Ton has a high pressure engine from 1954, cause its got the 4 bolt cover with 4 vents in it. Sweet!


You want to make God laugh? Tell him you plans.
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Originally Posted by Truckasaurus44
I guess my 1953 2Ton has a high pressure engine from 1954, cause its got the 4 bolt cover with 4 vents in it. Sweet!
Maybe, unless someone put the vented 54/55 valve cover on a later 235/261 engine.

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It's got the 41-54 water pump, and that plus the 54 valve cover says 54 engine to me.


You want to make God laugh? Tell him you plans.
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Most likely, 1954 car/truck 235.
Or, maybe a 1955 1st series truck engine.
Or, a little possibility you have a 1954/55st 261 engine.

What is the Engine serial number?

What are the head/block casting codes?

What are the head/block date casting codes?

Here are locations of codes.
Find the codes and post them here.

That should tell you which car or truck 235/261 head and block you have.

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Wrench Fetcher
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I need to clean alot of sludge and dirt off the engine to get the numbers, but it isn't a 261. I checked and there aren't any captains bars on it. Darn! At least its a a high pressure engine, which was my bigger concern.

Does it matter whether its 55 or 54? I'm starting to think I've actually got a 53 6400 body on a 54 6100 chassis/drivetrain. The body has a 1953 6400 VIN and emblems, but the wheelbase is the shorter 6100 137" setup and the frame hasn't been shortened. It's just a theory at this point. is there a VIN on the frame somewhere to verify?


You want to make God laugh? Tell him you plans.
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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"Does it matter whether its 55 or 54? "

"its" - meaning the truck and/or meaning the engine block/head?

Does it matter to you if the truck or the engine block/head is a 54 or a 55?


" . . is there a VIN on the frame somewhere to verify?"

There is no VIN anywhere (in today's meaning of VIN).

There is/was a Vehicle Serial Number metal tag on the cab, between the driver's side hinge openings. If you find that tag, post the information here.

Here are some serial numbers:
1954 truck serial numbers
1955 first series truck serial numbers


Post the engine code, the block and head codes, and the body/vehicle tag code and you will have a high probability of IDing you truck/parts.

That ID is still not absolutely conclusive (things could have been swapped-in and/or swapped-out), but if all codes jibe, you have a high probability of IDing your truck


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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