The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Fender / Sheetmetal Repair

I have some repair work to do on my '64's fenders. One of them's split, and all of them have dents. What do I need to buy, toolwise, to get these straight? My hood has a few wrinkles too. I want to use as much original steel as possible.

I will have to replace the rear cab corners, rockers, lower fenders, typical rust areas. I've seen two types of tools for sheetmetal replacement; one is a flanger, that would flange the replacement panel and create an overlap. The other is a basic buttwelding tool; it holds the two panels together with a certain gap between the two. Have any of you used either of these, and if you've used both, which do you prefer / recommend? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Visit my website if you would like to see what I'm dealing with.....

http://bkndsdl1.home.mchsi.com/

Hammers, dollies, welder, 4.5" grider with flapdisk to smooth out weld when done (be CAREFUL).

Eastwood makes a good starter kit that I purchased that has served me well (various hammers and dollies).

Using the flange tool on this thick metal has not worked for me at all - so I just butt welded everything (cab corners, etc.). Came out pretty good - needs a little smoothing, but I'm happy.

I have not tried those butt joint clamps or whatever they are - would like to though!
Hope this helps -

- Ryan

I haven't tried any flange welds yet. I wanted everything to look as original as possible and did not want the flange showing anywhere. I've got a set of the little butt-weld clamps from Eastwood. They work really great and have made many of the repairs much easier. The only problem I have run across is that sometimes the metal expands and wedges the spacer portion of the clamp in place. I've had to use a hammer and vice grips to tap and pull the spacer from between the panels.
At some point in the past I saw the same clamps in a Harbor Freight catalog for a better price. They may be listed on the web site. I'm not sure what HF's quality would be, but there really is not much to go wrong with the clamps.

Flanging tool works great where you do not mind the flange showing on the backside-should be sealed as it it a potential rust spot. Have not used the butt-weld clamps but butt welding is tough where metal is thinned/rusted.

Harbor freight has the flanging tool on sale for $30, down from $50. As noted, it will leave a seam in the backside. But it seems easier than butt welding. The name seems like an accurate description for what it looks like when I do it.

Does anyone know the Harbor Freight part number for the butt welding clamp set? It was 44751 but that number no longer works.

Thanks, Tim

Cleco clamps are the way to go for butt-welds.

I have to tell you guys, stay away from the cheap JUNK at Harbor Freight and even some of Eastwoods stuff. That "starter kit" is pure GARBAGE. Like I say in my "Basics of Basics" to tool buying go out and buy yourself a nice CD or something instead of throwing it in the garbage on those junk tools.
You really have to read the following text and pay attention to everything said. Just Because you are doing this as a hobby doesn't mean you should be working with junk . If you think the learning curve is steep and high learning how to straighten those fenders, try it using those JUNK hammers and dollies. I have been doing this work for 25 years as a living. I would have a hard time doing a nice job with those JUNK hammers and dollies. Now, think about it, take away all my 25 years of experience and put the JUNK tools in my hands. Think about how much harder it would be to do even a decent job.
Forget buying the JUNK $22.00 set of two hammers and two dollies. Instead buy ONE of the quality Martin Hammers they sell. I recommend the number 31230 this is the hammer I use about 90% of the time. I have to tell you, I have about twenty hammers and about 12 different dollies in my box. Having them is wonderful when I need a specialty one. But about 99% of my work is done with the one mentioned (31230) then one similar to 31218 with the fiberglass handle. It is very strong to use on where a little harder striking is needed or on thicker metal. And the dollies used are a "toe" and a "Heel" like 31032 and 31225. If you were to buy the 31230 and then the 31032 when you had the bucks, you would be MUCH better off. And later on when you are tired of banging on fenders? Sell them on ebay for just about what you paid for them! Or you can toss the $21.00 set in the garbage, that is all they will be worth (for that matter that is all they are worth when you buy them).

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Basics of tool buying.

The subject of tool buying comes up often, there are many tools we NEED and thousands of tools we want. Only you can decide what to buy and how much money to spend buying it. What tools each of us “need” is going to vary quite a bit. A tool I have found to be the cats meow and can’t live with out, could possibly gather dust in your tool box. If there is one thing that I have learned as a hobbyist and a pro doing body work 40 hours a week is that I am never sorry that I bought a tool. If I only use it one time a year, I am glad I have it. What tools you could have sitting around to only use once a year is going to be different for all of us. One guy may feel his twenty dollars in sanding blocks is as far as he would go. While another guy would have $10,000.00 Mill in his garage to save fifty dollars a year in machining costs (it is more likely he simply MUST be in “control”). This is something only you can decide how far do you want to go. I can say this, having the proper tool can make a difference in how long it takes to being able to do the project at all. I have found that many tools I have bought for a particular use have ended up being a far more useful tool than first thought. And some I thought would be very useful have been more limited. The one thing I have found is if you buy a good quality tool and find you don’t need it, it is worth darn near what you paid for it and can recoup your money if you decide sell it.

Quality tools truly are an investment, I have bought and sold (I have sold VERY FEW of my tools) for much more than they cost when new. A cheap tool, is worthless used, totally worthless. So you are not “saving money” buying cheap tools. Cheap tools make your work harder, you can damage yourself of your project. The cheap tool can take learning MUCH harder. In fact, it can make it impossible. If you can not afford the better tool, barrow it. I have been amazed at what is available to rent. I have a tool rental shop near me that has everything from slide hammers, MIG welders to dump trucks. You may find that after you have borrowed it, you will find a way to afford it. As a pro working with a shop full of other pros, if I have to borrow a tool more than twice, I buy it, period. In your home workshop, you may want to make up a rule such as this to help you choose what to buy and not buy.

Learn as much as you can about what tools are available for the particular things you are doing. You can’t make an educated decision on what to buy, borrow or rent if you don’t know what tools exist.

Quality VS cost:

There are three basic levels of cost and quality when you look at tools. The best, most expensive are found on the “Tool truck” here you will find tools that are darn near works of art. A 12 piece combination wrench set is about $200.00. The second step in quality and cost is your major department stores and REAL auto parts stores (like NAPA, they have a very good quality product). Sears offers a good tool in their Craftsmen line. Here you will find that 12 piece combination wrench set for about $75.00. Then there is the last, lowest junk you can buy, places like Harbor Freight with shelves covered with products made in China. That set of 12 combination wrenches will be as low as six or seven dollars! These tools should be avoided at all costs!! This is extremely general but it is a good guide line to use.

For the home hobbyist to spend $65.00 for a ¼ ratchet on the Snap On truck like I do would be ridiculous. But if you go to middle cost and quality like at Sears or Lowes (Lowes Kobalt wrenches are made by Williams tools a division of Snap On) you will get darn near as good a quality (just not the artistic quality) as the Tool trucks. There are many specialty tools that can only be found on the tool trucks or similar outlets.

A good rule of thumb is if the tool costs only a fraction of the cost for a top quality one, how could it possibly be very good? A real Roper Whitney metal punch like I use is about $135.00. The cheap copy available at the cheapie tools store are about $25.00, how could it do even a similar job? If you are looking at a tool and there are a number of brands that are similarly priced, then you are talking apples and apples. Say a 4” electric grinder. Something like a DeWalt is going to cost you around $100.00. There are a number of brands like Makita., Milwaukee all around $100.00. That $29.00 one at the cheapie tool store is JUNK.

My personal experience has found that how long a tool will last is only a small part of it. Common sense will tell you that as pro I need high quality tools so they last the many times I will use them over the coming years. As a home hobbyist you only need to use them a very small amount compared so why spend the extra money. I have found that most of those cheap tools that sell for 20% of the quality ones do not perform the task even one time properly. The punch I mentioned will damage the metal more than it will punch the hole! If the tool doesn’t even do the job you bought it for, it really doesn’t matter how few times you use it, you got hosed. Now, what do you do with it? Throw it in the trash that’s what. If you are going to buy those super cheapie “Dollar bin” tools, instead spend the $25.00 on a nice Stevie Ray Vaughn double CD. At least you will have some cool tunes to listen to while you spend all that time in the garage.

My employer pays me a lot of money to do my job, I have to be able to do it as fast or faster than the industry standard or I am out of a job. I also need tools that help me do it with the least amount of effort to save wear and tear on my body. Plus, I need to last a long time with a high amount of use. Good quality tools help me do this.

So what do these issues have to do with the home hobbyist?

First off, that garage time is very valuable. You are making a living everyday at your job and then you want to come home and relax and get some hobby time. You need tools that will help you get the most done in the least amount of time. It makes no sense to spend two hours of your valuable time doing something that could have taken 30 minutes with the correct tool. It even makes less sense when you think that most operations are done many, many times one each car. Then to add to that the fact that this is probably not going to be the only car you ever restore. Your time to you is as valuable as my time is to my employer.

You also need a tool that does the job easily. Again, it goes back to time spent plus the fact that you may just be learning this art of auto body and paint. It is like learning to play a piano with some kids toy. You just can’t imagine the difference a tool can make. For instance I recently bought a set of three “panel poppers” off the Snap On truck. These are the screw driver looking tools with the fork at the end to get under the clips that hold on door panels (as an example). This set of three cost $65.00! But, I am so thrilled with them I have “sold” another three sets for the Snap On man. They are so superior, my old ones (also Snap On) have been moved to my “seldom used” drawer. I spent $125.00 for a spring hose clamp remover, I can’t see how I lived without it. Why fight with things, it is hard enough to learn this art. Plus you can get hurt using those cheap tools.

How about how long it will last? As I said, these tools are an investment. I have bought used hammers and dollies on eBay for $35.00 dollars or more. What do you think you would get for one of those $20.00 hammer and dolly sets if it were used? Listen, I bought one myself for my first tools. I ended up using the last unbroken hammer to close paint cans and it BROKE the head!! LOL. You know as well as I do, you are hooked on cars. You will be building or co-building cars for the rest of your life, why not just buy the good tools now. I have Snap On tools that I bought 25 years ago, unless I loose them I will hand them down to my kids.

I do the same thing with other non-auto tools. My gardening tools for instance are all pro quality, and those that were not have long broken and been replaced with high quality ones. My time (read that my LIFE) is much more important than saving twelve and a half bucks when I buy a tool. The other day I was doing a carpentry job with my brother and a cousin who is about to retire (next month). I learned so much working with him. We started the project and I walked in with my $15.00 claw hammer. He laughed at me and said that it was for a woman to hang pictures on the wall. LOL I used his pro hammer that costs about $30.00, what a difference! I could drive three times the nails in a day with that hammer. All I could think of is all the nails I had driven with the piece of crap, working my butt off, all over a lousy $15.00 savings.

There are exceptions to the rule, I have a $99.00 Astro Portapower I bought 20 years ago that I still use every day. I’d bet you a dollar, if it were the “shop” tool, it would be tossed in the trash in a month. There is NO way it would hold up. It is more like my last few experiments where I bought a cheapie Vice grip. Those things are expensive right, the little ones I like to use hanging quarter panels are about $11.00 each, and when you have twenty or thirty of them that adds up big time. Well I picked up a couple for two dollars a piece at Harbor Freight. They didn’t even hold their own weight clamped on the panel! I tossed them in the garbage. I needed some large ½ impact sockets. I shopped and shopped, and no Tool truck was stopping by the shop so I broke down and bought them at, you guessed it, Harbor Freight. There was one warning they forgot to add along with the “WARNING WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES”, they should have put “WARNING DO NOT HOOK AN AIR HOSE UP TO THE AIR TOOL YOU ARE USING THESE SOCKETS ON”. I broke three sockets the first or second time I used them. I broke down and spent $200.00 on a 26 piece set of S&K, they WILL last me the rest of my life.
I do have to say, the miniature windmill, trailer dolly and the little rechargeable airplane I bought at Harbor Freight are TOP NOTCH. My little boy and I have had a ball with the airplane.

These are simply my person opinions and experiences. Shop around and before you spend your hard earned cash, think about it.

By brother has a very profound saying, “I have never said, darn I wish I would have bought the cheap tool”.

I've never seen a Cleco that would work for butt welds, what does it look like?

MARTINSR IS RIGHT. This year I broke down and bought a new Miller wire welder , my welding has improved at least a 100 percent. I buy alot of top quality tools, at a great savings at pawn shops ,especially right after Christmas.

Cleco clamps are nothing more than a removable rivet and they need to go through at least two pieces of metal. I prefer to butt weld all my metal repairs, takes more work to get it right (I don't like the overlap that is created with flanging). I have the butt-weld clamps but rarely use them (like when installing a big quarter panel repair section. As usual, MARTINSR has good info.

I know Clecos,I have them. I have never seen any designed for "Butt-welding". They are used by drilling an 1/8" hole thru two or more pieces of metal like when lap welding. I also have some Cleco "clamp" style ones that are like a plier and squeezes the metal together. I have never seen any for "Butt-welding" and would like to give them a try if I can get them.

The debate on Butt vs Lap welds goes on and on. I think it is just like what quality of paint to buy, it depends on the subject and the talent of the guy doing the work. I'll be darn if I am going to butt weld the a patch panel on some old working dump truck. I would lap weld (likely with a flange) and down the road. Like wise, if I am talking to a guy with limited welding and body work expereance, I am going to tell him to lap weld it. Butt welds "can" take a LOT more skill to do. So it is not a black and white answer.

Good points MARTINSR. I butt weld because I can but it wasn't always that way. I remember using pop rivets and galvanized sheet metal and lots of bondo a LONG time ago. It's one of those evolutionary things. I figured you knew what Clecos were, I was responding primarily to Splashoil. Now I'm wondering if something like a Cleco was ever made for butt welding.

MARTINSR, are older Craftsman body hammers and dollies any good for ocassional use? I might be able to get some at a reasonable price, they look to be from the '60s.

Eastwood sells a shrinking hammer with a cam-driven rotating head. Is this just a POS gimmick, or does it really work? I might be able to get one of those for a good price, too.

On the cheap tool discussion, I have ocassionaly found some decent stuff at places like Harbor Freight. Not good enough for daily shop use, but okay for my purposes. For example, I have metric and SAE flare wrench sets that I picked up at HF, and they have always worked fine. If they break, I'll buy some Craftsman replacements. I agree, though, that most of their stuff is total junk, unless it is a name brand.

MARTINSR

I must comment - the starter set that I purchased from EASTWOOD is not the starter set they are selling now!

I spent several hunderd dollars on mine - not just $22.00! (3 hammers, 2 dollies, 2 spoons and something else I forgetting)

I second your comments on tools and quality. I've made too many purchases at good deals - only to repurchase the CRAP later.

- Ryan

Quote MARTINSR

"A good rule of thumb is if the tool costs only a fraction of the cost for a top quality one, how could it possibly be very good?"

This logic may hold on occassion - but it is not flawless.

Example 1:
I have a 300 dollar mail box for you - it's top quality - guaranteed to outlast all other mail boxes. Wanna buy it? If it doesn't I'll replace it for free. :0

Example 2:
Craftsman VS. Tool Truck - both have lifetime warranties. Why spend the extra just so I can have something that cost more? If either breaks it will be replaced for free. I have three sets of tools - one craftsman from my grandfather, another craftsman from my uncle, and a third craftsman from my father. The oldest ones are still in great condition and outdate most people on this page. In fact - I recently broke my first socket - called up Sears - and they have no problem exchanging it.

If you've got the cash - sure blow some on the little frillies on the handle - but I disagree that cost always = quality.

I can come up with hundreds of examples supporting MARTINSRs position - and usually argue that point (e.g., most recent F-up on my part 4.5" grinder from Harborfreight - $25=1 year) - but it's not always the best heuristic available.

- Ryan

Some of the power tools made in China are so poorly made they are dangerous!!! I say NO THANKS

Funny you should ask. The number 31218 I mention where I say mine is "similar", mine IS a Craftsmen with a fiberglass handle. My lovely exwife (bless her cheating heart) gave it to me for Christmas over 20 years ago. Yes you bet it is a good quality hammer. However, it is a "Club" of a hammer compared to the fine Martin hammers and many other pro hammers and dollies. If you use them a little you will see very fast what I am talking about.
The shrinking hammer, yes hey do work to a degree.I personally feel you should learn how to shrink properly and not damage the metal with a tool like that.

Ryan, you may have bought the Martin Kit in from the Eastwood catalog. But the "starter kit" (that is what it is called in the catalog) is a $22.00 box of junk. If that is not what you meant I am sorry, but if I thought that is what you meant, so would others.

You are right,

Example 1. That is why I said it is a "Good rule of thumb"

Example 2. That is why I recommend in the text to buy Craftsmen. Me personally? Yes I buy "some" Snap On, Mac, Matco off the "Tool trucks". I Buy things that I feel give me the best value. The truck comes to me. With Craftsmen, I have go fight the mobs at the mall, walk past the Underwear dept, small appliances, and ladies shoes to return my broken socket. I do have many Craftsmen tools in my box, but they are chosen carefully.

Cost does not alway mean quality, I made that clear in the text "But if you go to middle cost and quality like at Sears or Lowes (Lowes Kobalt wrenches are made by Williams tools a division of Snap On) you will get darn near as good a quality (just not the artistic quality) as the Tool trucks".

I think that is pretty clear about my intentions in the "article". These are guide lines for people who know little or nothing about tools. It is good guide line. The "Odds" are if you follow these guide lines you will have a good tool for your project. I even explained how my cheapie Porto power has done it's job. I did this to explain that there are exceptions that we could talk about til the cows come home, it is just a guide line.

I bought one of those cheap starter sets, just to find out with practice, what each piece is used for. The metal is junk quality, so soft that I can see the results of each hammering session. But, I think I have learned a bit about what each shape does. The price was definitely a throw away price.

I thank all of you for your posts; I thought you were talking about the $22 set, Ryan. MartinSr, I'm going to take your advice and purchase the hammers and dollies you mentioned. I hope to get started on the bodywork soon, and I'm sure I'll have a lot of questions for you all when I start....

One question I have is, what exactly does a slapping file do? How do you use it to shrink metal? Also, where would I get a flapdisk?

Martinsr makes many valid and valuable points. You need to know what is worth buying and what isn't. I've experimented and gotten burned on cheap stuff, and I've also been pleasantly surprized sometimes too. As my Canadian hero, Red Green would say "If you're absolutely made of money..." Simply put, those of us who aren't made of money must consider options and aren't able to be "tool snobs". (no offense intended)

I like to ask around before I buy something, finding that if people I consider worth listening to to be a good resource. For example, I talked to my friend who teaches auto body what his thoughts were on the above mentioned flange tool from HF. I was expecting him to say "buy the good one like my $250 model". (I was ready to do that, too.) His sheepish reply was that a student had brought in a cheapie HF model, and HIS use left him believing it was close enough in quality of output that it was worth using. Would you buy it for heavy daily use, maybe not. But for a few times a year, it would be just fine. Other times, like hammers and dollies, you're right, it is not woth the frustration to buy the junk that's cheap. (NAPA has some good stuff that is reasonable, by the way.)

That same "costs more means more quality" applied to cars would mean we would all be driving Caddilac's or Jag's. (knowing what JUNK they have been historically) Sometimes your just throwing money at a name. My thought is to take a look at the Chevy or Buick or Olds. You may find something acceptable and fine for you, or you may find you like the big sticker and fancy stuff.

As to sockets, wrenches, etc. that you count on daily, don't be dumb. Anything less than craftsman will probably leave you mad and sore.

Think, ask, look, touch, and try. If it fails these tests, spend more money.

You mean I should stop using my framing hammer and electrical box as dolly?

I was going to move UP to the $22 kit...
:rolleyes:

I apologize for my lack of clarity. I should have checked the catalog - and put in the part numbers I was refering to. Again - I apologize.

I do want to thank MARTINSR for his professional advice though - and everyone else. I know I wouldn't be where I am on my truck today without others' assistance and advice.

- Ryan

MSM - Flapdisks - you can get these guys at your local hardware store - usually by the grinding wheels. Kinda spendy but worth it - in my opinion.

- Ryan

Hey MARTINSR, are you aware of any really good books or videos on metal forming? Stuff like shrinking metal, pounding out dents, repair of crunched metal, etc. I can get a panel relatively flat but I want to get it real flat. I have a hard time with broad expanses of metal like the hood of my '57 chev. One little push and the metal can pop downward and I could never get it to look like new. I watched that guy on American Hot Rod last week slapping around a damaged taillight section on that '56 and it looked so easy.

Honestly? I know of no good books on the subject of "regular" body repair. I know of lots on fabricating panels and things like that but none on just how in the world do you fix a dent. They all leave out SOOOOOO MUCH. I have approched some publishers with my book but they just are not interested. They start dropping big names that they are working with. They just don't get it, the big names may sell books. But the books are always for a more advanced guy. They are never the "Basics".
Here is one of my "Basics of Basics" on flat panel repair.

It may be useful to you on your hood.
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Flat panel basics.

When you have a large flat panel that is flexing the first thing you need to do is find out why. Sometimes you can stop it, other times you can’t. But if you can stop it, you’ll have a much easier time with the body filler work. Hoods, decklids, and the roof are particularly difficult because the heat and weight of the plastic filler can have an effect on the metal. The good news is many times it is very easy to repair.

First off, there is no such thing as a “flat” panel. All panels that appear flat actually have a slight crown or gentle bow up in the middle. Go to a flat panel and lay a straight edge across it. You will see that the straight edge in not touching the panel at the on the outer ends. If the panel were perfectly flat it would appear to the eye to be concave. It would also have no “body” and flex very easily. This is the problem with your large flexing panel; it has “lost” its crown and is now weak and flexible.

The first place to start your search for a culprit is under the panel. Many panels have inner structure that supports the outer skin. When the outer panel has been damaged the inner structure was bent down along with the outer. This inner structure can be in the form of just a simple inch or so wide support running across the panel to the complete support by a stamped panel that goes covers the underside of the panel. These full inner structures can commonly be found on hoods and decklids. The inner structure can sometimes be bent down, causing your flexing. It usually is very close to the outer skin, with just a thin layer of a foam or urethane adhesive. It may have small “dollops” of this foam or adhesive that has been squished between the inner structure and outer skin or even a thin piece of tarpaper.

You can push up on these low spots to return it to supporting the outer skin, as it should. But it is difficult because you can’t push it past where it needs to be. On this particular type of damage, the inner structure would need to go past the correct shape and then “relax” back down to where it belongs. It can’t do this of course because the outer panel is there and limits the inner structure from going up where it needs to go. Just as with looking at the “big picture” when you look at any dent, you need to search for a kink or bend that is holding the inner structure down in that area. If you apply pressure up on the low area and tap out these kinks, you may get it to stay back in shape. If these methods don’t get it back up to support the outer panel properly, you will need to “shim” between the two panels to get the outer panel up where it belongs. This can be done with sheet of tarpaper or more adhesive. As a last resort a thin piece of wood like a paint stirring stick can be used. Of course, this is a little on the funky side but if you are haven’t been able to correct the problem, something has to be done. What you have to watch out for is applying too much pressure in one area. If you were to force a piece of wood in there, you will likely be making a high spot on the outside. That would just give you in a whole new problem.

Sight down the body lines that are nearest the low, “oil canning” , or just plain flexing area. A body line is effectively the “edge” of the panel. Those crowns in the flat panel that I mention end at the body line. So each area in between the lines is sort of like an individual panel. Look to see if the body line is low, it may be holding down your panel. If it is, you need to push it up. To help you determine how straight the line is sometimes you can use a metal ruler as a “straight edge”. How can this be done on a crowned panel you ask? A metal carpenters yard stick will bend very easily, right? So what you do is lay the yard stick on it’s back against the panel and apply a little pressure on the outward edges low area where the metal is OK. You will then have a “curved straight edge”. I have a drawer with a number of these metal or aluminum rulers in it and find them very useful. I treat them like rice paper and they will last a lifetime.

So lets say that you have found that you have no low spots in the body lines or there were one or two and you repaired them. Now you have to look for something else that is holding the panel down. This can usually be found in the form of a “crown” or “brow”. When you put a dent in any panel the metal has to “go” somewhere. All panels have this crown, right? So as an example picture a metal rod that is 3 feet long. This rod has a slight bend to it. The center of the rod is up from the ends about three inches. If you were to push down on the center, the rod would get “longer”, right? So, if the ends of the rod were clamped in vices, the “extra” rod would force the areas on the sides of where you were pushing to go up. You panel does the same thing only on a much smaller scale. Most brows will be found on the outer edges of a panel, this includes of course at the edge of the body line. They are VERY common around the outer edges of a roof. Search around the outer edges of ANY bent roof and you will find them.

The brow or crown is a U, C, L or even I shaped high spot. In the center of that curved high spot is a low spot, sort of like a “pocket” in the brow. Just one or two of these will make a panel, especially a large panel look like a cotton sheet! What you have to do is to push up on that low spot while tapping down on the brow. When I say “tap” I mean TAP. Just the weight of the hammer bouncing off the brow will do it sometimes. Use a large VERY flat body hammer or a flat body spoon for this repair. If you are careful you can repair these brows with little to no plastic filler. Just take you time and keep checking the area with a block with sand paper or a vexon file if you have one for low and high spots.

Now, if you simply can eliminate the brow and low spot, you have won the battle. If it takes some plastic filler, so be it, you have given the panel it’s strength back and that is what matters.

Ryan is right, they do shrink the metal a little. It "gathers" the metal, shrinking the surface. I personally don't own one. But I could be very wrong and it is a wonder tool. I tried one years ago and ended up grinding the thing smooth to use as a "spoon.

Check you this link for some great videos on metal fab. If you want to see a master at work collect a few bucks from a couple of friends and by one. I have a number of the videos and have talked with this guy many times at shows and he is a true stand up gentleman.I highly recommend the tapes. I also have the small "book" he sells on "Contouring and finishing sheet metal welds" calld "Smarter than Metal". It is a VERY good outline on the subject. Ron Covell sheet metal fabrication

MARTINSR,

Do you mind if I copy your 'how to" in the above post and put in on another board - of course giving you credit?

- Ryan

Ryan,
It's Martins call, but why don't you just post a link to this thread on the other board. That way folks who may not be aware of its existence will get introduced to the 'Bolt.

Jeff,

Good point - I'll do that.

Board I'm linking from is http://www.streetsourcemag.com

- Ryan

I found a cool book that has helped me a little ,it is pretty basic but worth the $15.00 I paid at a swap meet . "The key to metal bumping" by Frank T . Sargent , copyright 1953 by Martin TOOL & FORGE .[FORT WORTH , TX]

Eastwood sells that book, too: #31063 $9.99 Good information in there.