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| | | Forums66 Topics128,150 Posts1,056,991 Members48,460 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 83 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 83 | I want to replace the front drums so I need to remove hubs I see holes for rivets but there are no rivets so maybe drums have been replaced before - From the shop manual it looks like the hubs may be pressed out is there any way to do this without an arbor press? Can they be driven out with a hammer or is this a bad idea?
Thanks
1953 3100
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Are you asking about how to remove the studs from the hub? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | If the rivets are gone, the drum should come right off the hub. Tap it with a hammer a bit. It probably is stuck. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 83 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 83 | Here are photos of what I have - I am trying to replace the front drums so I think I need to take the hubs off but I may be missing something. Can I replace the drum without removing the lugs from the hub here is the link to the photo not sure if I did this right http://s651.photobucket.com/user/swindsors/slideshow/
1953 3100
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy Cletus1950, your pictures show a drum mounted inboard of the hub, to remove the drum from the hub in your picture you must remove the wheel mounting studs from the hub, that will allow you to separate the drum from the hub. I must admit that 1950 is not my area of expertise, but I thought the drums were mounted outboard of the hub and retained with rivets from the factory? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 83 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 83 | Thanks for the info - do you think these hubs will work with the replacement drums you get from places like Jimcarter or classic parts? or should I just use the ones I have they are not that bad but one of the front drums does have a groove in it. The replacement drums do not have the "waves" on the inside like these drums do so I am not sure what to do
Thanks
1953 3100
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 83 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 83 | Thanks for the info - do you think these hubs will work with the replacement drums you get from places like Jimcarter or classic parts? or should I just use the ones I have they are not that bad but one of the front drums does have a groove in it. The replacement drums do not have the "waves" on the inside like these drums do so I am not sure what to do
Thanks
1953 3100
| | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I would have them turned if there is enough meat left on them. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,749 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,749 | Huck type brake drums are expensive. I don't know for certain but the "wavy" part you are looking at is just to conform to the drum. Yours looks to be held in place by the Lug bolts(press fit on the studs?) Might need to press them out 1 at a time to release the old drum. I haven't pulled a Huck front drum from the hub in a very long time, so not much more I can add. The replacement drums are close to 150.00 each. Might try getting it turned and see how far you can safely go. That groove won't hurt much, it will make very little difference to the brake shoe. But it will make pulling the drum after a bit more of a challenge. The real reason(opinion I know) for turning the drum is to keep it round. A nice flat surface for the shoe is nice, but not mandatory. A round surface is.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 83 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 83 | Thanks Steve - decided just to use the drums the groove doesn't look bad it is not very deep you can see it in one of the pictures the drums look like they were turned not too long ago so I am going to go with what I have
1953 3100
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | The front drums from Jim carter are listed for 119.95. I bought a set a few years ago. Unlike the old drums, they are a one piece item made from cast iron. I believe mine were made in Argentina. It is usual practice to supply new studs with the front drums. I agree that you probably are better off trying to get your old ones turned. You don't have to worry about something not fitting correctly. | | |
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