The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Pertronix igniter question

Planing on installing the igniter today
(37 Chev stock 6 volt neg earth)
From the instructions it looks like a simple procedure but I must confess I have never even changed the points out previously so don't know my way around the inside of the distributor
On some of the pertronix info it refers to an earth wire in the distributor
I can't see an earth wire in the distributor
Should the be one?
I think I saw in another thread that an additional earth can be added by connecting a wire from the distributor clip screw to a good earth source?
Is this necessary/recommended?

Thanks

Den

New zealand

Distributer case is "earth". A wire is only needed if the dizzy is very loose in the block or some fool put an "O" ring on it. The clip to earth wire is for peace of mind. Better solution is the ground(earth) strap from the bell housing to the frame. To set your mind at ease, put an Ohm meter on the block to the mount screw on the points. 0.0 Ohms? Good to go.

Now you got me thinking about the somewhat mysterious grease cup/spring/disc arrangement on the distributor. Could earth grounding be one other of its purposes? That spring would definitely force the opposite side of the distributor tube to make good contact with the block.
Carl

It would make a better one if there weren't a non-metallic pad between it and the shaft. Steve is right though, I wonder how many people have a rubber O-ring on their distributor. I found three of my engines with it from previous owners. It definitely doesn't belong.

The clamp grounds the distributor.

(as long as the clamp-to-distributor body grounding is clean?)

When converting it is also a good idea to replace ignition bits,
i.e. new cap, rotor, spark plug wires and re-gapped spark plugs.

Thanks for your replies
Very helpful as usual

Installing the igniter turned out to be a marathon..........
Got the points and condenser out and looked at the breaker plate.... it just didnt look right
called up a mate and showed him a photo of it
Turned out that a PO had riveted an an additional plate to the existing to suit an alternative type of points
The original plate was mutilated with holes, had no pivot pin or eccentric screw
The above mentioned mate said he probably had a spare plate for my distributor in his garage
Drove half an hour to his place picked up the plate returned, installed the igniter according to the instructions

tried to start the truck, it fired but it was obvious that the timing was way off and had been set up to suit the non standard points

called up the above mentioned mate who said he would call through an take a look at it

He arrived and reorrientated the dizzy and started up the truck

We though problem solved but not long after the Dizzy popped out
Pulled the distributor to see why? Nothing apparent. After reinstalling several times to get it right got it back in again in the right spot
started truck........keeping an eye on the oil pressure
popped out again........
pulled dizzy out again notice that the bolt on the left side of the distributor was non standard and was doing nothing
the above mention mate said the only thing previously holding the Dizzy in was gravity and 1937 grease ( possibly some from the 50s as well he said)

He said he probably had the correct bot in his garage and went home a got it

Reinstalled the dizzy ( we must have had it out 20 times)
Started the truck... and noticed a horrible scraping sound from the dizzy .........pulled out again....
It would appear that the screw i put in to hold the igniter was scrapping on the parts below
ground of the protruding part of the screw ....reintalled the dizzy did the timming
At this time my friendship with the above mention mate was starting to wear a bit thin... mind you he had been there all day
and after much thanks from me he left.

Unfortunately the truck is still not running well
It goes well a higher revs but bogs down when accelerating
from idle
Also it has a rhythmic hiss from the carb.... sss...ssss....sss
Im to embarassed to ring the above mentioned mate up again

I have checked
The firing order
the valve clearances
that all plugs are securely attached
that the vacuum tube is re attached to the advance
that the distributor rotates an returns freely
that there are no broken valve springs
the timing
re gapped the plugs at 40

Any suggestions from any one

Thanks
Den

"Also it has a rhythmic hiss from the carb.... sss...ssss....sss"

Den,

No that is most likely not right - could be a vacuum leak.
Carburetor might need rebuild/replace.
How long did the truck sit without being driven?

What procedure did you follow to adjust the carburetor?
What procedure did you follow to adjust the timing?

That's a nice looking truck.

Before you take a blade to the back of your mate's knee, ruining his golf swing, give him due credit for even getting the old truck to ever run, given that you Kiwis are half way around the world from where you can find any parts at all.
Have him over and go over every component required to make an engine run properly.
Carl

Hi Tim
Truck was running fine before I changed to the pertronix ignitor 6 volt negative earth model i also installed the recommended coil prior to installing the igniter which also went good

Did not adjust carb

Timing done with timing light on bb (vacuum advance was connected)
Im wondering if a bit of grease plugged the thin vacuum line which i might take off today and clean

Carb is rebuild and was fine previously

To recap on symptoms
Rhythmic hiss suck
Bog when accellerating from idle
Also cyclic drop in revs about every 10 seconds while idling

Runs good at higher revs

Den99,

If the hiss sounds like a vacuum leak, you might want to try a shade-tree technique for finding a vacuum leak: open very slightly a hand-held propane torch and move it around the base/body of the carburetor (and/or near where you hear the hiss). If the RPM increases, you have a vacuum leak causing the hisssss.

If you have a stethoscope, you could use it to find the location of the hissss - then, open the propane near the hisssss.

Good luck.

after you diagnose your Vacuum issue try advancing your timming

Sounds like your timing is retarded and needs advanced.

At this point disregard your timing light settings and other than verifying that the vacuum advance and winshield wiper vacuum lines are properly connected and not leaking, don't mess with your carb.

Slightly advance the timing and test. If no improvement continue to ever so slightly advance some more. You want to set it to where you get a slight ping on acceleration and no bog.
If this corrects it you can attribute the change to the pertronix altering the timing from the BB.

Good luck
Dave

Thanks Guys
I advanced the timing and seems to be running better

PS have attached a recent photo of the truck

Den99,

Try adjusting timing & carburetor with a vacuum gauge.

Vac gauge is a good tool

Helps with setting the mixture screw

and a tach will also help with setting the idle

The pros can do this by ear

I use the tools
...example on a 235...

Truck still running rough even after timing cheched by mechanic
Engine surges
Im thinking its a vacuum problem
Hand over carb makes engine speed up
Also when putting hand over carb prior to pertronix instal it would just about suck your hand in
Now much less
Could the pertronix effect the air fuel mixture that much?

Put the points back in and find out. I doubt it though.

No the Pertronix would not have that effect on your air/fuel mixture.

Did you set your timing after installing the Pertronix unit?

Set your timing using a Vacuum Gauge (rotate distributor until you achieve maximum vacuum at idle RPM).
post with vacuum gauge tuning techniques

if the truck was running well before the pertronix, why would you try to fix it? I tried the pertronix twice, once in my mustang, and once in the truck they both failed on me. I had the truck for 28 years and it never, ever failed to get me home, I have had pushrods fall out due to stuck valves, fuel pouring out all over the ground, yet it still made it home. The only time it left me alongside the road is after I "upgraded" the ignition. I can fiddle with points for the rest of my life and still never equal the aggravation caused by the pertronix. The worst part is it didn't run any better, maybe even worse. Upon reflection after the fact, I don't ever really remember points being any trouble in any of my vehicles, and I drove points equipped engines for at least 30 years. My suggestion would be to just leave well enough alone.

I have had no problems with 6v and 12v 235/261 Pertronix units (use a ground wire from a distributor cap clamp-screw to the head).

However, I agree with brokenhead : I think there is only a minimal advantage (if any advantage) in using a Pertronix unit. I'd guess there is no performance advantage when driving at normal speeds/RPM.