The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Steering box angle

Years ago bought a power steering conversion kit. 1953 Chevy 1/2 ton. Put on as instructions said. But I also added a dropped axle and mono leaf spring. So the arm from the pitman arm to axle is not on same angle now as box. I used the reverse pitman arm as instructed but still seems close to box. I would think the two should be on the same angle, right? So tilt box till it matches?

Really could use a picture. Is the box mounted ahead of or behind the axle. The rule usually followed on box mounting for a straight axle is to have the pitman arm straight down (vertical)when the pitman shaft is in its travel center position and the drag link parallel to the floor. This will limit bump steer to its minimum though bump steer is a fact on a straight axle.

Don't know how to put picture on here. I can send to your phone. My phone 724-433-9015. The link that goes from pitman to axle should be parallel? Drag link connects the two wheels. It is to rear of axle and bar is straight. Box is mounted on outside of frame and toward front.

The drag link is the short rod that runs from the pitman arm to the steering arm on the left side. It being so short is one reason for bump steer. Ford partially solved the problem by using a long drag link from the pitman arm to the steering arm which was moved the right side. This is called cross steering. Sorry, still have just an old flip phone but can maybe get my nephew to correspond with your phone. Good luck.

Thanks. I work at napa and have asked several customers that build hot rods. One says leave it alone it will be fine the next says move the steering box up until the arm is parallel with the floor.

Ya everyone tells me I'm going to have bad bump steer since I also put the drop axle along with the mono leaf springs. Oh well I'll wait and see. Just didn't want the same thing as everyone else.

I think you'll at least discover the difference between form and function this way. There is a reason they all look the same.

The first time you test drive it please go to a road with dips in it and go through them at a slow speed to see just how much bump steer you have. Another way is to have a couple of hefty people bounce the front end up and down and watch the steering wheel. Severe bump steer and high speed can be dangerous. If severe you can use a Unisteer unit or even an axle mounted R&P. I have not used either but have seen several at shows and swap meets. Be sure to let us know how your set up works out, you might have released a new genie from it's bottle.

I will for sure. It will still be awhile. Only have had my truck since 1992! It's a lifetime project for sure. Thanks for all the help!

You might also consider increasing your insurance coverage- - - -life and liability. Getting out on the road with a poorly-handling vehicle ought to be illegal, considering the potential hazards to the people who have to share the road with you.

In Japan, there are severe criminal penalties for people who attempt to work on safety-of-operation items on vehicles unless they're factory certified mechanics. All the bolts on suspension, steering, brake, and other safety-related systems have a special-color paint applied by dealer service departments, and there are periodic roadside checks to see if those paint seals are undisturbed. I'm not advocating that sort of system in this country, but it shows how serious some countries are about highway safety, and how irresponsible some of us are about safety-of-operation modifications.

Edit: Sometimes the truth hurts. Apologies to the perpetually-offended folks on the forum, I guess!
Jerry

Now don't get all squishy on us. Most of us have become accustomed to your often misunderstood ways.
Carl

When I get it on the road I'll have to let you guys know how it handles. I drove for UPS for over 25 years all straight axle trucks some without power steering. So it can't be much worse than that. I hope anyway! Thanks for the help.