The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Swapping 216 for a 235

Howdy, I have removed the original 216 from my 1950 3100, I left the three speed trans in the truck. My question is would it be easier to remove the trans and install it to the bell housing on the new 235 or try to install the 235 with the trans still in the truck? Clutch alignment can get interesting lying on your back. Thanks and Merry Christmas to all!

Merry Christmas, 6XCHEVY,

The one advantage of doing it as you describe, is that you do not need to open/disconnect the torque-tube connection.

Yes, alignment of the transmission front/pilot shaft to the clutch is a consideration. There are a variety of ways to deal with this. Here are two ways:

I look at this as a 2-person job (maybe someone will correct/clarify).

1. put the transmission in neutral
- remove the inspection cover from under the clutch housing
- "jimmy"/rotate the flywheel to align clutch to front/pilot shaft (using a prybar or large screwdriver or rotator tool in the teeth of the flywheel)

2. put the transmission in gear
- raise the rear of the truck and put stands under the truck (first: chock both sides of a front wheel)
- have a friend/spouse rotate a rear wheel (and hope it rotates the drive shaft)

If your u-joint cover is leaking, you might as well remove the transmission (get a gasket/seal kit and follow the adjustment instructions in the Shop Manual).

If my logic is faulty/unclear, someone will correct this.

Good luck.

Well stated Tim. Especially the part about if the u-joint cover is leaking. The OP should be hoping that his is leaking so that he will have reason to do the swap the easier way (install engine with transmission attached to bell housing).
Carl

I agree about the leaking u-joint housing, Carl.

However, a few other possibilities should be posted (warning: the following descriptions are boring and #3 is somewhat ridiculous):

1. Transmission removed from the truck before removing the engine (clutch housing/assembly attached to the engine)
- obviously the u-joint assembly would have been opened and the u-joint disconnected

Install the engine (clutch housing/assembly attached to the engine)
- install/attach transmission to clutch housing/assembly
- get a gasket/seal kit and follow the adjustment instructions in the Shop Manual
- reconnect u-joint and torque-tube u-joint assembly/cover
(I usually do this - to allow inspection of the u-joint)
==========

2. 4-speed transmission: engine/transmission cannot be removed/installed together. The 4-speed transmission will not clear a frame cross member, unless you raise the cab (people have done that).
(If I am wrong - please correct me)
==========

You will like this next method (engine and transmission together and no need to disconnect u-joint):

3. I think some pre-Advance-Design Shop Manuals suggest this procedure (when removing engine/transmission together) - no need to open u-joint cover/housing:
- put wheel chocks on both sides of one or both front wheels
- jack up the rear of the truck
- put the rear of the truck on sturdy stands, under frame rails
- disconnect the re-ward spring bolt on each side
- disconnect rear end (transaxle) from springs (and lower rear-end of each spring-assembly to the ground)
- disconnect various rear brake lines/cables
- lower rear-end assembly (so it is rollable on the tires)
- loosen the collar/cap at the rear of the u-joint cover and slide the collar/cap cover rearward
- roll the entire torque-tube-assembly rearward (with wheels/tires still on, of course)
- remove engine/transmission together

After engine/transmission (and u-joint-assembly/housing) have been installed in the truck (as one piece/assembly), reverse the above procedure:
- no need to disconnect/reconnect u-joint, just slide drive-shaft end into u-joint housing, by rolling rear-end assembly towards the transmission/u-joint-assembly (first, make sure u-joint-housing collar/cap is in place on the torque-tube end, or you will curse for a while)

Note: this is complicated to describe and to visualize, but, it is not a joke - I did this once with my Suburban (do not ask me why) and it worked fine.

WOW! Tim, we're running out of cats to show many different ways there are to skin one.
I do enjoy to hear about all of the different ways to do things.
Whenever I hear someone say, "Well you have to do it this way.", I tend to say, "Oh yeah? Hold my beer and get ready to see this!"
Carl

Would you like to sell the flywheel dust cover on the 216?
abassman-in-Alabama

Please place Want Ads in the Swap Meet;
and/or, click on 6XChevy's name and send a Private Message

The ways to get things done are a constant source of amazement. I think a bit different from some so take this as an opinion. 3 speed trans mission is light enough to move by hand(that is me under the truck). The 4 speed is too big to move by hand(that is a jack under the truck with me). Undoing the torque tube is messy but not hard(told you this was an opinion right?). Lifting the 4 speed from in the cab(engine hoist) is an option. The rear cross member under the tail of the transmission could use a coat of paint...Pulling the engine is a project. Might as well look at the "U" joint and the trunnion bearing while you are under there. Smile it is only some suggestions. Sulfur in the transmission oil and the third member have been banned from my home and laundry. I use clothes that can be recycled a shop rags for this kind of work. Makes it so much easier to go to sleep at night. That stuff makes the dryer smell bad, so I have been told.