The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun Steering box flush?

I've removed the steering mast and gear box to repair the dash stress cracks where the mast attaches to the dash.
I removed the filler plug and drained the remaining grease and the oil from the box (which I believe was thinned with gear oil as it flowed out very black and strong smelling of gear oil).
There didn't seem to be any noise or jerky movement when turning the steering shaft prior to removing.
My question is should I just flush with kerosene or some other solvent and refill with the correct grease or rebuild the box?
Thanks

I'd follow the adjustment procedure in the Shop Manual and, if it adjusts/drives OK, there is no need to "rebuild".

I would not flush - I'd just fill with corn-head grease (any farm store, usually) or steering-gear grease (harder to find).

I don't see any harm in flushing it with kerosene or diesel fuel and refilling with the proper/suitable grease.

I would think you would want to clean it out somehow. I would only want one kind of lube in it if possible. Some of them don't mix or play well with others.

Larry W.

Thanks.
I have the complete unit out on the bench, I will be testing and adjusting as required when I've reinstalled it after the dash repair, painting of the mast and dash.
I've had the local farm supply (UFA) do some research for the equivalent and they can supply a Chevron steering grease.

I think I would only use kerosene as a flushing agent then let drain for a while to get as much as possible out to avoid contamination with new grease.

If you have have it out, you might as well clean/flush out the grease.

Flushed out the steering box and found the lower worm bearing has come apart. Looks like I caught the ball guide and worm before any damage was done.
After complete removal all bearing guides and races look in great shape, with no scoring or pitting. Now just have to find a couple of new spherical taper bearings to replace these.



http://s1281.photobucket.com/user/d...%20rebuild/IMG_3184_zpsemczeenf.jpg.html

Classic Parts (Trucks) steering gear kit - lower bearing? (I cannot tell if it is included)

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Jim Carter lower bearing?
Jim Carter kit - no lower bearing?

After chasing around to 5 different auto parts and bearing suppliers yesterday I found 2 bearings for my worm steering shaft.
Hydra Steer specializing in steering box rebuilding with branches in Edmonton, Calgary and Surrey have them. Part # 179291 40.00 each.

Doyle

Sorry to bump an old thread.

I have a 55.1 3600. The PO filled the box with gear oil. I want to replace it with corn head grease.

Can the steering box be drained without disassembly? I'm old enough to know that taking old things apart can result in a much larger project.

Thanks for all the great help.

I love this bar.

Turkey baster?🛠

Actually considered that. But, Wifey nixed the use of cooking utensils.

Walmart! Label it so your Thanksgiving turkey won't taste like gear oil.🛠

A two foot piece of plastic hose, siphon it out overnight. I always keep my own turkey baster around.

Ed

Get the outside of the box as clean as you can. Remove the 4 bolts from the end cap and remove the cap. The lower bearing and race will come with it. You can let the box drain as much as it will and then use some carb cleaner with the straw to clean a little more off the walls. Don't clean off the upper bearing or the worm nut, as you won't get any lube back into them. Let the carb cleaner dry out for an hour or two.

Pack the lower bearing and race and assemble. You may have to replace the gasket, or you may not. Either make one or use a thin smear of Permatex Ultra Black. Pack the rest through the hole as best you can! I like CV joint grease myself!

The manual calls for adjusting the steering shaft using a scale on the steering wheel to set preload. You can get away with guessing on this one, for the most part. First, loosen the jam nut and screw on the sector shaft. (The one everybody adjusts) Then loosen the big nut and adjust the screw accordingly on the steering shaft. (The one nobody adjusts!) Basically like a front wheel bearing, feeling where the bearing makes contact. Adjust it just a bit tighter so that there is a bit of resistance when you try to turn the wheel while unloaded. Since the manual shows the gearbox out of the truck, you need to have the wheels off the ground and use your best guess as to how much resistance is the bearing and how much is the steering linkage! Basically, take out all of the end play of the steering shaft and snug it just a bit!

Lastly, adjust the sector shaft screw.

Well, I didn't want to disassemble the box. So, I found some clear tubing and sucked out the 90w. As I was putting the corn head grease cartridge in my gun, the plunger released and, before I could get the cap on, squeezed half the tube out, all over my hands and the grease gun. Big mess.

Thanking G_D for Harbor Freight and cheap nitrile gloves. But, you should have seen me trying to get them off. My hands were spotless. My wrists, where I tried to grip the cuff with well-greased fingers? Not so spotless.

But, hey! Corn head grease makes a good skin moisturizer!

Haven't had it out on the road for a prolonged drive yet. Hoping the steering might get a bit easier. It's pretty stiff (or, maybe I'm the stiff).

Thanks for the input, folks.

Did you do the steering gear adjustment as described in the Shop Manual.
That is what made a big difference on my trucks.

Thanks.