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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 120
A
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
A Offline
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 120
During restoring my truck I stripped cleaned and reassembled the rear end, including removing and destroying in the process, the leather oil seals. I got the SKF replacements. (Chicago Rawhide/SKF 31870) In about 1000 miles these appear to have worn an almost invisible score on the axle housing, and started leaking. Thanks to the catch cups the new brake shoes and skimmed drums were not touched.
Has anyone had a similar experience? Where can I find original leather seals? The housing was in very good order, as were the leather seals- pity. You live and learn.
I may be on to a 3 3/16 speedi-sleeve- not a common size. 81mm is , nicely, .0015 bigger, but hard to find. I may be on to some, yet to confirm. If I sort it I will submit a tech tip.


'47 Canadian RHD 1.5 ton truck
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,100
3
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'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,100
Hy anyoldiron, the old leather lip seal number is C/R 31874, but it has been discontinued for quite awhile.

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 120
A
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
A Offline
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 120
The speedi sleeve did not pan out- the guy had the size wrong.
I am on to a place in the UK that has some leather seals for the chevs and GMCs on stock, or they can make the size I need for GBP25.
when i sort it out i will submit a tech tip.
Anybody know a place in the USA that will make leather seals?
Major british brands- Bedford (GM) and Massey Ferguson, had leather seals up to the late 60s- they cant be all bad.


'47 Canadian RHD 1.5 ton truck
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 242
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 242
I should have the rear seals you need. 1-262-392-2989 or [email protected]

Marv.

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,869
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,869
One cause for seal leakage is not getting enough preload on the bearings during reassembly of the hubs. The inner nut on the load tube should be tightened very firmly, and then backed off just a little to allow the hub to be turned by hand with a slight amount of drag. Once the preload is set, the outer nut and the star-shaped lock washer maintains the proper preload. Failing to preload the bearings allows the hub to move up and down over bumps and keeps the seal from maintaining good contact with the sealing surface of the load tube.
Jerry


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Joined: Jan 2010
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Shop Shark
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Posts: 120
Thanks Jerry. That could be a reason.
The rear bearings are very difficult to get right. And easy to get too loose. There must be little brake shoe drag, or none. I have started to adjust the bearing with a wheel on, to give much more leverage on the hub assembly when ensuring the inner nut is correctly tight and then backing off.
While the LHS one appeared to have scored the axle housing, the RHS one had not. Both failed identically ie equal amounts of lost oil. I expect both sides bearings were adjusted well enough and equally so its still a mystery. Or they need to be tighter than factory for neoprene seals.
Also its easy to get the seal in slightly eccentric- this will cause it to rotate slightly offset and possibly pump oil.
Anyway I found NOS leather seals and the problem appears to be fixed.


'47 Canadian RHD 1.5 ton truck
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 46
D
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 46
A common service point often neglected is to occasionally remove and clean the rear axle breather. They get dirty and plugged. Driving any distance builds heat and the expanding air forces the lube thru the seals. David


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