I just finished this upgrade on my '65 c20. I bought a kit from CPP. I ended up not using most of the kit due to inferior quality parts, parts that didn't fit, etc. The balls provided, the nuts had tons of slop on the studs, maybe 40% of the threads made contact, so I bought Moog ball joints and had those pressed in the lower '65 control arms. I recommend sourcing parts from a junkyard if at all possible. You'll need the spindles from a '73 to '87 3/4 ton truck and you'll re-use your control arms. If you have a donor truck, grab all you can from the front end. Don't get the booster kit from Master Power Brakes, they don't have one that works with 3/4 ton trucks. I bought all my parts and kits years ago and was told it was bolt on. Since I had the MPB booster/master cylinder kit, I had to have a plate fabricated that allowed me to bolt their booster to the firewall, and I bought a new master cylinder for an '81 3/4 ton. I put the MPB corvette master cylinder in a box. You'll need to have front brake hoses made. The ones made for '73 to '78 Chevy's (that's the year range for the calipers I ended up with) are too long and need to be tied the the front shocks. The '73 and newer front hoses bolt to the calipers and run under the upper control arms towards the front and then bolt the frame in front of the suspension. Our trucks, the brake lines run behind the suspension, so the longer brake hoses are too long and the left side is used on the right, and vice-versa. The front steel brake lines are 3/16", and the rears are 1/4". I just used the factory 1/4" lines and just plugged the tee's that ran to the front brakes, and ran the new 3/16" to the fronts. I don't like the pads that came with the CPP kit, they overheated way too easy, so I'll be upgrading those to something of higher quality.
When you tackle this project, make sure you have all the parts, or at least the majority of them and can source the rest easily. It took me about a full week of time to complete the project, but that full week of time was spread out over about a month due to shorter days and weather. Getting the hydraulics figured out was a major headache because of using kits. If I had a flaring tool I could have made my own and saved some money. I think I paid a total of $1,500 in kits, and ended up buying better quality parts to replace parts in the kits, so all in all the upgrade cost me close to $2,000. If I knew now what I didn't know then, I could have save a ton of money by sourcing the the parts from a donor truck.
If you need any other info, just ask, and I can answer the best I can. It is a really nice upgrade, and the truck will stop so much better. I'm still getting used to the new shorter braking distance.
