Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,078 Posts1,055,936 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | Who on here has some good pictures of replacing cab panels on their 1/2 ton pickup cab? I ordered up a new outer cowl, r.h. floor pan, cab mount and rocker all for the passenger side.
Thanks John | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | Thanks Brad..... Mainly like to see in what order you replaced them and also any bracing I might need in the cab. Especially replacing the rocker.
John | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | Floor, inside cowl panel, inner cowl to outer, outside cowl panel, one side at a time, I did not use any bracing but frequently hung my door to check fit. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 | As long as you don't cut the door opening metal (hinge pillar, lock pillar, rocker panel) and only do one side at a time, you don't need to do any bracing. Just make sure that your doors fit prior to removing any sheet metal.
Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | These are great DAD50.... Shows about what I'm getting into in replacements. Thanks John | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | Whitelightning,
I could not see what year your truck is but a consideration for the 1947-1950 models is the driver side replacement panels are not available with the opening for the cowl vent. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | 1953 1/2 ton.... Sorry about that. I thought everyone had ADs. LOL John | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 | 1953 1/2 ton.... Sorry about that. I thought everyone had ADs. LOL John Nope. Just the smarter ones do.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | Floor, inside cowl panel, inner cowl to outer, outside cowl panel, one side at a time, I did not use any bracing but frequently hung my door to check fit. Interesting I did panels opposite of this and things worked ok. I braced for good measure from the seat frame to firewall. My cab repair album.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 465 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 465 | Actually a lot of those pictures were a great help to me a few years ago | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 465 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 465 | Whitelightning,
I could not see what year your truck is but a consideration for the 1947-1950 models is the driver side replacement panels are not available with the opening for the cowl vent. which is annoying,I kept the vent door and mechanism,then realized I couldn't cut those back in. so I was cleaning and tossed the door and the hinges I thought were for the vent door. ( until I went to reinstall glove box door) | | | | | Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 147 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 147 | Floor, inside cowl panel, inner cowl to outer, outside cowl panel, one side at a time, I did not use any bracing but frequently hung my door to check fit. Brad, Can you tell me how you dealt with the area where the rocker panel and lower part of the door pillar were replaced? https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129114310/in/album-72157631867396207/It appears that the lower pillar was completely replaced along with the forward section of the rocker panel. I have this exact same condition with the rotted out lower pillar and forward rocker panel but not sure how to maintain stability if all of it is detached. Thank you, Eric
1950 Chevrolet 1/2-Ton 3100
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | All of the panels are available for this repair. I think some people cut out too much at one time and it gets overwhelming. I laid out my panels carefully, cut my way in and welded my way out, I did not sacrifice good OEM metal. The panels are usually bigger than the needed repair, if the old material is good I left it. The panels are also just close and require sometimes extensive hand fitting. I would check door fit before fully welding any seams. The floor needs to go back in first as it involves the cab mount and must be true, then the inner cowl, I added some of my own reinforcement internally before closing it all up. The thing to also check and address is the hinge pockets and cage nuts, if they are damaged during reassembly they are nearly impossible to fix correctly once closed up. Take it slow, measure three times, get someone to assist as another set of eyes and ideas can help. | | |
|
|
