The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Sealing Bed Wood

What is the best way or product to seal or clear the bed wood.I have cut my own wood out of cabinet grade oak planks,and want to seal it up.I have some automotive PPG Clear Urothane laying around.Will it work or do I need something else?

I used a quality marine spar varnish. After sanding the boards with 120 grit sandpaper, apply a coat of 50 % varnish and 50% thinner. Let dry,
and sand with 280 grit sandpaper,and wipe with a tack cloth. Apply a second coat of 50/50 thinned varnish. When completly dry resand with 280 grit sandpaper and wipe with a tack cloth. Apply a third coat of of 75/25 varnish to thinner. After dry, sand and wipe. For the fourth coat, use a fresh can of varnish(do not thin) and a fresh, clean brush, Do not shake or stir the varnish. To prevent bubbles,wipe of the brush as needed on an empty coffee can. On the last coat, apply to the edges, ends and backside,and allow to dry before applying the final coat to the face side.

I pal who's done beds a number of times, swears by this stuff :
Deks Olje

On my friend's truck we first sealed the wood with Thompson's waterseal, sanded and then sent to the body shop for several coats of clear coat. On Trucks tv show yesterday they said you can use either marine spar varnish or clear coat, but to be sure to seal all 4 sides, both ends, and the inside of the bolt holes.

I have automotive clear on my bed boards and they are going on 11 years. There's some checking and a few spots where it's lifted, but 95% of the clear is still nailed to the bed boards.

The key to clear is that you have thin it down at least 50% and then brush on three to five coats, cutting between with some 200 paper. Then you can brush on full strength to start building it up and lastly go to spray for the last couple of coats. Then use auto rouges and polishing compounds to rub out the finish the same as you would on any automotive finish.

Those urethanes are used on bumper covers and they are very flexible and durable. As long as you are not staining and coating natural wood, automotive clear will work great, have a long lasting durable finish and will resist UV degradation. If you stain, then you can not use automotive clear because the stain will compromise the chemistry of the clear and it will never setup and cure properly. I saw a bed that was stained and then cleared and it was tacky and never did cure. Some food for thought.