The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 won't come to life

Good evening everyone!

I'm a bit frustrated. My 216 is refusing to start after 30 years of slumber. I have spark to the plugs. My timing appears to be on. With the BB on the pointer the rotor is pointing at wire #1. Please let me know if this is not accurate.

Give it a little gas in the carb, a few pumps on the throttle and start cranking. It cranks and cranks, but never fires. I have the choke closed as well.

In the interest of full disclosure, I'm pretty new to this so don't be afraid to ask the obvious. I know I'm probably making this harder than it needs to be, but what fun would it be if it started right up?

Learning in WI

Frank

When the bob is on the pointer is # 1 piston on compression stroke?

Pull the valve cover and watch the valves for #6 cylinder as you rotate the crankshaft. When the last one in line (exhaust) opens and almost closes, you'll see the second valve from the rear (intake) begin to open. Now check to be sure the distributor rotor is pointed at #1. The ball and pointer align twice, once for #1 compression, and again when #6 is on the compression stroke. The only way to be sure you're in time on the correct cylinder is to watch the valve action.
Jerry

Had a simular situation with a long dormant 216 approx 3 yrs ago.
After trying every trick I could to get it started a compression test told me I didn't have enough compression in 3 cyl's for combustion. After pulling the head I discovered all the exhaust vales were burnt and wore and the intakes not in much better shape either. A head rebuild later it's been running strong since.

Make sure the valves are fully closing by ensuring they are adjusted properly (just set them cold, loose is good in this case) and if that don't do it do a compression test.

Good luck
Dave

Jerry;

Does that trick hold true for all Stovebolt sixes or is that 216 specific. If it applies to my 250, I need to put that in the kit bag.

check for spark first it may be in time but has no spark, if it is cranking it should fire at some point , if there is no spark you may need to check to see if the coil has power if it does check your points then your condenser( these tend to break down and are essential)hope this helps

That works on all engines with an even number of cylinders. If the firing order is split in half, and one group arranged under the other, it identifies "companion cylinders". For instance:

Inline six firing order (all makes) 1-5-3-6-2-4

Companion cylinders:
1-5-3
6-2-4

When the #1 cylinder is on compression with both valves closed and the spark plug ready to fire, the #6 exhaust valve is closing, and the intake valve is just beginning to open. This is known as "rocking". By watching the #6 valves, you can be sure #1 is in the firing position, ready for a spark. Ditto for 5 and 2, and 3 & 4.

Now let's try a small block V8: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Companion cylinders:
1-8-4-3
6-5-7-2

Once again, the 1 and 6 compression strokes are one full turn of the crankshaft apart. Watch the #6 valves, find their "rocking" position, and set the distributor to fire on #1.

An engine with an odd number of cylinders like an Audi or one of the newer GM inline 5's takes a little more effort: Get a cylinder's valves "rocking", mark the crankshaft position on the balancer, and make one full turn of the crank. You are now at top dead center on the compression stroke for that cylinder.

The same procedure works for adjusting valves.

Jerry

Many times I've removed the #1 cylinder spark plug, removed the coil wire to distributor, put my thumb over the spark plug hole and have someone tap the starter until I feel #1 come up on the compression stroke. Checked to make sure the timing marks were on and set the distributor to fire on #1. Now I know there are other ways of doing it too.

Rick

Watching the valves is the best way. The front number one cylinder shouldbe rising and both the intake and exhaust should be closed or the intake should just have just closed as the piston is approaching top dead center. Then watch to see the next cylinder in the firing order has valves in the correct position.

Yes, watching the valves is an excellent way. As long as you have (or want to have) the valve cover off in order to watch the valve movement.

Otherwise, Rick's way is another way that is just as easy (and, there is no need to remove the valve cover).

Pull the #1 plug,
- put a rubber plug in that plug's hole (or, put your finger over the hole),
- rotate the flywheel until the plug (or, your finger) gets blown out of the hole, and
- then look for the timing mark on the flywheel.

Choose your technique and go with it.

The finger pushed out test is the simplest test for finding compression on #1 for any make. To find TDC is a bit tricky with a closed engine...but a spark plug drilled out and a rod inserted will get you there with some care. Assuming, as always, the cam is installed correctly.

Jerry/All;

Thanks for the clarification. That is good to know. I'll have to try and commit this to memory.