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Joined: Jul 2001
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Hey guys! we are about to move here pretty soon, but for now I am passing the time helping our next door neighbors son with a go-kart he is building. It is an 8 horsepower 19 cubic inch Horizontal shaft Briggs and Stratton. It has a Flow-Jet carburator on it. We have no idea how old the engine is, but here is an idea: it was origionally sold by Montgomery Ward, so it has to be at least 20 years old, because I have no idea when they went out of business. We have a catalog that you can order new parts out of, and it shows that you can get chrome piston rings for these engines. Should he use them? I know a lot of these small engines by B&S used chrome inserts in the cylinders, but can these be used with iron cylinders? Also, I am looking for sites that show how to do performance upgrades on these engines. Thanks guys!


Jonathan S. Keffer

Certified Yeti Trainer

Richard Roy Schlicht-
Good Grandfather, Veteran Wrench Turner...

"If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is..."

Es gibt nichts, zu befürchten, aber befürchtet sich.
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
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MONTGOMERY WARD'S ONLY CLOSED DOWN JUST A FEW YEARS AGO. THOSE GUYS USED TO SELL EVVVVERYTHING.


Heavy metal worker--up to 4-inch plate.... If you can't cut it, burn it!
Joined: Feb 2000
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'Bolter
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Check out these guys for cool race stuff for the B&S. Jegs
Post the serial number off the engine, I have some tech information that may help identify it.

Joined: Jul 2001
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Serial: 190402 0652-02 730352310


Jonathan S. Keffer

Certified Yeti Trainer

Richard Roy Schlicht-
Good Grandfather, Veteran Wrench Turner...

"If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is..."

Es gibt nichts, zu befürchten, aber befürchtet sich.
A
Anonymous
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A
easiest performance boost is to file about .005- .010 inches off of the exhaust valve stem (check it during a full rotation of the cam to make sure you don't take too much off). This will allow you to get the full mechanical compression rather than about 70% of full compression due to exhaust cam lobe profiling done for ease of starting. Also, you can do a few tricks with filing the key on the flywheel to advance the flywheel timing and creative mods to the points to advance the points timing 3 - 5 degrees to allow a little more pop.

My company sponsored a racing lawn mower for a few years and the first one we built up for one of our employees to race - it was a lot of fun and you would be amazed at what a mower looks like running 30 mph into a corner spraying rocks and dirt everywhere as they pass on the inside trying to get the hole shot eek grin

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On some motors you can use an aluminum flywheel for reduced weight. Some B&S shops stock offset keys for changing ign timing. Aftermarket cams are available to slap the valves open for high RPM. You can also play with cam timing. Some ring sets feature low drag rings for higher RPM. Just don't use chrome rings in a chrome or plated cylinder. There are also aftermarket dippers and rods & high comp pistons.

have fun!


Preaching the Hot Rod Gospel according to the 4-stroke apostles:

Suck, Squish, Fire and Fumes
Joined: Oct 2001
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4
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Maybe you should put a B&S motor in your car, chip, then you know you won't have problems with the distributor. :rolleyes:


Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
Joined: Feb 2000
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'Bolter
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Sorry my book doesn't go that new. All I have is the alpabetical series engines. Joe

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nitro......NITRO and a lot of timing!
40% 45degrees!!! BOOM BOOM!

YOU WILL NOT NEED A CARB IF YOU RUN METHONAL!!
just a hose!


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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