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I have a couple of questions regarding seam sealer. I have the brushable seam sealer. I have used this for years. The problem is, it does not flow and clean up that easily. I want to seam seal the lap joints that are all over the bed of my 1945 GMC. The brushable seamsealer will leave brush marks, and a lousy looking filled seam. I was thinking of using a house grade silicone based, paintable caulk. I use this stuff on my house all the time, and it wipes up with a damp sponge. Leaves profesional edge, and can be painted. WIll this hold up to solvents, primer and paint?

Second questions is along the same line, my cab has a rolled body seam along the center of the entire cab. It's where the roof and back window panel meet up with the lower 1/2 of the cab. There is a gap there from the factory. I am concerned about leaving the gap un-filled. What type of seam sealer should I use, that that it cleans up nicely.

Thanks

I used Eastwood's #31115Z. Sandable, paintable,looks great.

I just used the same water clean up sealer on some hidden joints and only time will tell if it will hold up.

On the cab joint I use the 3M head duty drip check sealer in the small tube.

Joe

HOw does the eastwoods sealer apply? ARe you able to wipe any excess so that it just fills the gap in the seam?

Did the primer take to the white stuff?

If you want to put paint on it don't use anything with silicone in it. Paint will NOT stick to silicone. Bostick 920 is the best sealer I have worked with. You can find it at any Marine type store. You can paint it and it skins over fast. Just tape the edges you want to caulk and run a bead down it. Then wipe down the tape lines with a finger and then remove the tape. This makes a nice bead. Just my 2 cents...

You may want to consider a "self-leveling" seam sealer for the bed. The self-leveling sealer is applied from a two-part tube thru a mixing tip and flows to a smooth slightly raised area over the seam. Needless to say this is best used on horizontal surfaces but works great for drip rails and other applications where the seams are visible. Unfortunately this is a two-part product and it takes a $40 gun to dispense it but for the serious restoration it can't be beat. Check out Autobodystore.com for details.

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Formula 1:
It comes in a tube just like regular caulk. I was easily able to clean up excess. Of course I applied the sealer after epoxy primer and before surfacer and paint.