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#1131254 10/25/2015 3:37 PM
Joined: Dec 2000
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I sent emails and made phone calls to every Alternator manufacturer out there. Nobody would return my emails except Tuff Stuff and they pretty much blew off the questions as well. The phone thing is useless. In review...

The question concerns what happens when you put a larger alternator than your Ammeter gauge can handle (meaning also your wiring can handle). I decided they do not want to answer because of liability issues. It is not in their best interests to tell you, you were stupid to purchase their big Alternator.

THE question I had for them was simply this: Under what circumstance would a 100 amp alternator (for example) charge to its maximum or more than the 50 amp ceiling we have on our gauges? CRICKETS!

So I took another route and asked my old friends at Sandia. The Scientists there will reason it out with pretty reliable results. I then also consulted Jeffrey Diamond from Victory Motors in London, and a few Electrical Engineers that worked with me in the FAA.

All of them agreed that there is only one condition where the Alternator would burn down the truck, and that would be a Dead Short. Aside from a catastrophic wiring problem, the battery will charge at a rate below 50 amps. Since wiring problems are a possibility...

So, with that being more clear, I asked them about the idea of using a 50 amp circuit breaker or fuse inline in the main charging system line. They all chose the fuse idea saying the thermal circuit breakers stop working over time and the fuse is more reliable. (carry spares).

The writeup for this is here:

http://devestechnet.com/Home/Native12VUpgrade/#gauges

Always appreciate constructive comments. The issue is using too big of an alternator for your system. If you use a 50 amp or less Alternator, it doesn't apply.


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
In the Stovebolt Gallery
The Think Tank
More info and tips at Deve's Technet
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'Bolter
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I like fuses. Deve you have the right approach. Safety first. Carry spares. With the Ammeter out the truck is dead. The starter will work but every thing else is un-powered. Please mount the fuse where you can get to it.


Steve H
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http://shiftworks.com/flash/amp-gauge.swf
this one is interesting too..
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

I stumbled on this today when looking for answers to another problem. I like the way they say the same thing I said, but better. I never professed to be a writer.

They tout the practicality of removing your Amp gauge and going to a Voltmeter siting safety and better information. That's why my article points back here to the Voltmeter tech tip.

I like the fuse idea too. There is also the idea of using a "Fusable Link". All that amounts to is if your main charging line is 10 gauge, splice a short piece of 14 gauge wire on the Alternator end of the line. When the line shorts, the 14 gauge wire will melt off first. That was how they did it from the factory for years. I guess it doesn't compute for me that putting that much stress on your system is a good thing. The fuse makes more sense to me.


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
In the Stovebolt Gallery
The Think Tank
More info and tips at Deve's Technet
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
S
'Bolter
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I do not like fuse links(my opinion) Too hard to fix and too hard to see. I do like fuses, and good fuse holders. The new type fuse, the flat spade types come in a version that has a LED that lights up when the fuse is bad. I like those. Easy to find when something goes bad. Not very "vintage" however. The Voltmeter/Amp meter issue can be resolved with a couple of options, 1 Find a volt meter that will fit(the more difficult part), and remove the Amp meter. You will have to modify the wire harness(again more difficult). 2 The other option is to mount a separate volt meter in a good location with a face that looks "vintage"(easy just dollars) Add some wire to the system(no harness changes) also easy. The hard bit is the location of the meter so it looks like it belongs. Big Amp system? Lots of Alternator and loads? See step 1. As for the 14 gauge wire idea? NO! A fuse link is not, a smaller gauge wire. It is a "fuse" just stretched out in a wire shape. It will melt at a low temp. meant to prevent fire and injury.


Steve H
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'Bolter
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Here is a link for those who want to know what a fusible link is: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fusible_link
Good read.


Steve H
Joined: Dec 2000
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Aha! That makes more sense. Thanks Steve!


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
In the Stovebolt Gallery
The Think Tank
More info and tips at Deve's Technet

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