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| | | Forums66 Topics128,187 Posts1,057,211 Members48,465 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 35 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 35 | My 1935 front doesn t have a hole for the cotter pin. Is there a different method to lock the castle nut? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,876 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,876 | Check a little closer, maybe with a strong light and a magnifying glass- - - -I'll wager someone has forced the nut to turn and sheared the cotter pin off flush with the spindle. If there's a castle nut on the spindle, there has to be at least one hole for a pin. Later model spindles usually have two holes, slightly off-angled to each other so the nut can be turned a little and pinned without going another full slot on the castle nut. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 206 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 206 | There is a type of nut that has a lock nut attached. If you don't have a cotter pin hole that's just plugged up as mentioned email me I have one that requires no cotter pin that may fit [email protected] | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | In my 1935 Chevrolet repair manual, on page 96 under "how to remove front wheels" it tells you to remove the cotter pin that locks the spindle nut in place. Maybe one of out members has the same year and can tell you the orientation of the hole. Sometimes using a strong cleaner or rust remover can create enough contrast to see the whole. If you had a magnet and some iron filings you might be able to find the hole using the same technique that is used on heads. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,749 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,749 | My bet? Someone removed the nut and left the cotter key in place...already posted above. The remains of the key are filling up the hole...but...my spindles are drilled for more than one cotter key...maybe, just maybe you can find the remains and push them out with a small punch. If not a "lock" nut will work.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | A locknut will not work because they need pressure to work and that is not the case here. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,308 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,308 | I would not trust a lock nut. They use cotter pins for a very good reason. No fun driving with only one front wheel. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,963 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,963 | If you can't find the original hole, why not drill another one? Larger trucks use a locking nut, but it is either 2 nuts or something like this http://www.macleanfoggcs.com/products/axilok/We use Axilok on all of our wheel ends, but I don't think they make one small enough for your application. | | |
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