The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Re: What did you get done on your 'Bolt today?

I had a quick hour to work today, so I got the floor mat installed & threw the seat in the cab to see how it would all look. Pictures. I used a $14 rubber/carpet utility mat from Lowes for the floor mat. If they would have had it back then, it's the floor mat they would have used. 'They' told me so.

Here's a look at last October 17th to today- 2 pictures

Brad

That $14 mat looks like it belongs. Seat looks good too. It is coming along nicely.

Since my last update in July:
- replacement 216 has had front mount replaced and is installed in the chassis
- connections to the engine have been completed
- front clip is on, radiator is full, and this afternoon it fired up!

Now, while the engine was idling, the fuel pump was leaking fuel on the driveway; appears to be around the body gasket (not the bowl gasket). I guess the time off the engine plus the long lasting effect of ethanol in most gasolines, have taken their toll on the seals and gaskets.

Otherwise a very successful day . After the pump is replaced, we'll try it again.

Best regards,

Bill

I got my driver side door & hinges installed. By myself. Something tells me this was not a one-man job, but it closes & lines up pretty good- at least I can say "it can be done". The nice, shiny, & painted door seemed much heavier that the rusty one I removed...(meaning, I didn't want to drop it)

It'll need some adjusting to line up perfect. You best believe I'm getting some help for that!

Brad

Okay! My pride and joy and the cause of all my anguish.

http://s1382.photobucket.com/user/gduran4/slideshow/

At present I have the distributor out awaiting a new vacuum advance. Cleaned the distributor up, cleaned out the grease port and reassembled. Truck idles great, runs great but couldn't accelerate properly. Thought it was the accelerator pump since I'd rebuilt the carb. Checked the advance and discovered it was INOP.

Put the camper on the truck ...... LONG weekend , eh

Cleaned up, treated, and POR 15'd the front axle and steering knuckles. Cleaned out all of the bushing races on the frame and leaf springs in preparation for re-installing the springs.

Well... I have some disturbing news to share.

I spent some time this afternoon reading in the Tech Tips section and read in great detail Kip Bond's "Spot Art Deco trucks like an expert!" I began to note some discrepancies between what I was reading and what I already knew about my truck.

So, after carefully checking most of the unique characteristics which distinguish the '41 from the '42 thru '46 trucks, I have concluded my truck is NOT a '41 after all, it's a later model with a 1941 title.

Still in love with her... just need to go for a walk and clear my mind. I may need to change my handle, too.

gld

Greg, oh man. I thought at first you were going to say we had some errors in the Tech Tip.

Changing your handle will be easy to do. But let it settle a bit. We have a lot of people in here who have gotten titles that don't match their trucks.

Peg

I guess it was the weather change from hot as H to a bit chilly that caused it. It was my driver side interior door handle. It kept falling off and the screw was stuck so I couldn't tighten it down. I tried a back-out but no success. I tried drilling the screw out but I ended up drilling out the hole and the screw. It was like drilling in soft dirt. I'm sure made in China is marked somewhere on this piece a crap. I have never seen such soft metal. I ordered a new one from Chevy Duty that probably will be this one's twin or at best a first cousin.

Not a chance! Quite the contrary...

I took some paint remover and cleaned off the body tag to get the serial number. Frank Anderson's VIN Buster confirms it's a late 1946 manufactured in Atlanta, Ga.

Thanks!
gld

Do not sweat it to much,mine is actually a 1947 because it was the first part of the year,so I just call it a 1946. mention 1941 to 1946 and everybody can get the jist of it.

Installed the new fuel pump this afternoon. Then ran the new cam in. After run-in, reset the cyl head and rocker shaft bolt torque(s), and reset the valve lash.

Finally, adjusted timing to best idle speed and max vacuum (~20"). First time in years I've not had a hesitation on acceleration.

Truck sounds better than it has in years! Can't wait to run errands in it tomorrow.

This past weekend, with the help of a good friend, we got my 55.1 back to running condition. It had been sitting for 7 long years. Sure was good to hear the old 235 fire up.

Thanks to all that contribute to this site, it is a wealth of knowledge.

Chris

Color sanding, color sanding, color sanding......................
And bed wood.

Couldn't agree more, Chris!!

I got one of my very shiny replacement door handles installed. I am not a very big fan of chrome, but the handles & added scratch guards look good against the dark blue.

Brad

We installed 6v LED bulbs - 1157 in the rear tail/stop/signal lights in the Suburban. The original bulbs were so dim that they were almost useless. These LED bulbs are incredibly bright.

The good news is: this bulb now works on 6v negative AND positive ground vehicles. (it actually works in 6v-24v positive/negative systems). I hope they continue to changed more of their auto bulbs to work with 6v systems. They also have a 6v -/+ bulb that works in dash bulb sockets. I do not know (and I doubt) if they work/dim with the rheostat in normal light switches.

I do not now have enough resistance in the signal-system to get the original accessory 1954 signal-flasher to work. I cannot find a 6v flasher that works with LED bulbs in all signal-sockets. (does anyone know of such a 3-prong flasher?). I have ordered resistors from Chevs of the 40s, but they do not know if they work on 6v systems.

As an aside: I am also using 6v wedge-socket LEDs in the modern/retro Grote marker lamps around the flat-bed on my COE (we installed those last week).

Hi Tim,
Classic parts lists a LED flasher for 12V . They have no specs but my best guess is that it would work fine on 6V. Another (kind of ugly) alternative would be to parallel the four turn signal LED connections with a resistor having roughly the same resistance as the turn signal filament of the bulbs you replaced. Holler if I can be of any assistance.
Best regards,
Les

Just re-thought my last post. if your turn signal switch is wired like mine, hot lead to fuse - fuse to flasher - flasher to turn signal switch, you would only need one resistor with a resistance of approx. 1/2 the filament resistance of one of your own bulbs connected to ground. That should fool your flasher into thinking you still have bulbs. I do believe that the LED flasher will work fine though.

Les

Thanks, Les,

Chevs of the 40s sells the 12v LED flasher. They told me it would not work in a 6v system.

Has anyone personal experience with a 12v flasher in a 6v system (especially a 12v "LED" flasher)?

I have bought a pair of resistors from Chevs of the 40s. One for the left side and one for the right side, I guess?

Tim,
I ran a step up transformer for me LED lights. I also have my rear turn/brake and running lights now in the same old style truck LED housing (Chevys of the 40's). Nice and bright back there!

Thanks, Jim,

I will be using a 6v positive ground to 12v negative ground converter with the 4" round 12v LED backup lights and stop/brake light.

I found a 6v LED flasher on eBay and will test it out (and report back here).

I do not yet know if that 6v LED flasher will work with negative ground AND positive ground systems.

Tim,
As long as the flasher body doesn't touch any metal the polarity will not matter

I installed my new gauges.

I had my Carb rebuilt by National Carburetor and reinstalled it. Works and looks like new.

The 6v negative ground LED flasher unit will supposedly work in a positive ground system, but it was suggested to make sure the flasher unit body is not grounded. (eBay seller: uakti572012 from Sweden)

Hi Tim,
Disregard my last post regarding 1 resistor. It would work but your flasher would be clicking all of the time regardless of your turn signal switch position. Your lights would flash when they were supposed to but the flasher clicking would probably drive you nuts. Another senior moment .

Anyway, you can wire your two new resistors like this . The new wiring is depicted in red. I based this on my Signal Stat 700 turn signal switch which has an output wire for each corner. If your switch also has 1 output wire for each corner then you can connect one resistor to one left wire and one right wire. In this case each resistor should have approx. 1/2 the resistance of the turn signal filament in one of your old bulbs. Resistance is not critical but should be somewhat close to maintain the original flash rate.
Hope this helps!
Best regards,
Les

Thanks, Les,

That is what I planned to do.

Your illustration is worth a 1000 words.

Best regards,
Tim

You guys need to be discussing this in Electrical where it can help others in the future.

I started rewiring my 56

Took the spare tire part off the frame,going with a latemodel truck or mini van cable spare tire mounting system. Might see if I can hook up a electric motor to one.

picked up cab corners today and last week I got floor pans, now I got stuff to do this winter

I scored some new door latches & a exhaust seal on ebay & decorated the old guy for Haloween.

Inspected and cleaned up the transfercase for my next project, a 1942 WW2 G506. Fortunately no cracks in the casing or threads...always a good thing.

I finished rewiring the lights today.

Rotated the wheels and tires, and adjusted up the brakes.

got new exhaust on the '69, 2 1/4" pipes with 3" stainless tips. now I can hear myself think while driving!!!! everyone else behind me...... not so much

removed the pass side front wheel stock brake and began to check for fit of the new disc brakes. Made the choice to drop the complete front axle, blast it repaint it as well as re build all the consumable parts,, I would ask for your help in my part search. I see we can get a modern style tie rod ends , I need or I guess I will need new spindle bushings and kin pins ! at this point I am learning a lot Thanks

I sent my whole axle to sid's for R&R. First class work, save you a ton of time. His web site has lots off good info. Droppedaxles.com