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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 3
W
New Guy
New Guy
W Offline
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 3
How we doing today,
Building a 1951 3600 Chevy, grafting on 1971 Nova sub frame, 369 motor, 4 speed Muncie, Dana 44 out back.

I am in the process of swapping my 51 Chevy's front suspension by grafting a 1971 Nova sub frame onto it. Read a lot of articles, looked at a lot of pictures but no one is very clear on any kind of measurements. Just wondering if anyone could help out a little. I have a plan but just was looking for some info before I jump in. I know I will have to reshape some sheet metal, and move my radiator support. But any help is always appreciated.

Thanks for your time,

WilliamT

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
William,
We have done many ifs swaps and after enough time even dummies pick up a few tricks. Here are a couple that doesn't require a tape measure. First BEFORE you remove the stub frame from the Nova put an angle finder on the upper A-frame shaft and get the built in anti-dive angle. This will also have your caster close in it's new home. Now tack a "T" bar onto the top of the cowl with the leg to the cowl and the (movable) cross arm above the front spindles. Drop a plumb bob on each side and adjust cross arm till string runs exactly through the center of the spindle end. Tack cross arm in place. When you put the clip in place adjust till string runs through center of spindle on the Nova spindles and your new front end is EXACTLY where your old one was. We usually tack our "T" bar to the top of the truck with two angle braces down to the cowl so when the strings are wound up everything is out of the way.


Evan
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
Oops, be sure to have the Nova frame level when you measure it and your truck frame level when installing Nova clip.
























Evan
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,851
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,851
Ditto on the above advice- - - -it's almost exactly the way we built dirt track cars when we would shorten a frame to achieve the minimum wheelbase for a car, and/or install a new front frame assembly after a major crash. Another trick is to get a set of screw-adjustable leveling jacks used for camper trailers and support the frame pieces in several places while mocking up the assembly, then tack-weld everything and re-measure before making the final welds. It's a lot easier to grind away a tack weld and reposition something than it is to cut out a fully-welded mistake!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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