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| | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 85 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2009 Posts: 85 | After looking for a long time I finally found an overdrive trans a few weeks ago. From a lot of reading I guess it's an earlier one, as the reverse / 1st slider has no syncro's. It(the slider) by the way looks almost perfect, very little wear on either side. I'm still trying to completely understand the shifter in the o/d section, I'll get it eventually, but about that shifter, there does not seem to be a detent of any kind so when I get a cable for it do I want a locking throttle or PTO type cable or is it's use only momentary?
Second, can I switch the shifter covers or just the shifter arms?
I am a few weeks away from the switch as I will be changing the rear end also, but right now I'm still enjoying driving the truck.
Thank's in advance
1949 3100
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | No need for a locking cable. Either an original style OD cable, like the one Fifth Avenue sells or a PTO cable will work just fine. On the second question, if it's the same style main transmission, then yes, you can swap the shift cover. Depending on what the transmission came out of, you may have to swap the covers, as Passenger is different from Truck, especially the '55 6 cylinder.
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 66 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 66 | Congrats on snagging the OD tranny. You are correct, the non syncro reverse/1st is pre early 60's. It is also identified by the 4 bolts for the shifting fork side cover. The 7 bolt versions have the rev/1st syncro, at least that is my understanding. The O/D section doesn't use a shifter to engage it. It is engaged electrically by the solenoid on the left hand side. The governor on the right hand side controls when it kicks in speed wise (@25-30 mph). The small lever aft of the solenoid is the lock out, as in it locks out the activation of the O/D altogether. There is a good article about these O/D's here: http://www.fordification.com/tech/overdrive.htmAnd a good thread on this forum: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=313886I'm also a few weeks from installing mine. My O/D is also an early version like yours. Another thing to note, the holes in the ears that bolt to the bell housing. Are they thru holes or are they tapped? The thru holes (so I've been told) indicate the trans was originally from a car. I plan on using a nut and bolt on the bottom two holes. What are you changing in the diff? Ring and pinion I assume. Going from what ratio to what ratio?
'59 Apache
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‘18 BMW R1200RT
'12 Ford Flex
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Salisbury, MD
| | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | TRUCKBIZ, you should state what truck it's going in. If it's going in a '55.2-59 you don't need to change side covers. If it's going in a '47-55.1 you do. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 Gas Pumper | | Gas Pumper Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 | There is a lot of Borg R-10 Documentation here: http://devestechnet.com/Home/HowTo#drivelineI was able to duplicate the Chevy switch bracket and switch at the Carb. Can't wait to try it. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | TRUCKBIZ, you should state what truck it's going in. If it's going in a '55.2-59 you don't need to change side covers. If it's going in a '47-55.1 you do. '55.2 with 6 cylinder and the standard/overdrive is different from the 6 w/hd 3 speed and V8. It's more like the '47-'55.1, with the bellcrank in the linkage.
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 85 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2009 Posts: 85 | Thank You all for the info,
Longbox 55 I had not run across Fifth Avenue before,a little pricey but looks worth it. I had thought the solenoid's were unavailable.
Cletus, I thought I had my truck listed, sorry, It's a 1949 3100, almost all stock. The transmission I picked up is a from a car I'm sure, but I don't know anything about it. I have not had time to measure the shaft size, could I just swap the levers?
Moonlight, Thanks for the info, I plan to install a 77 K5 Blazer rear end 3.73 ratio. This be the first real departure from stock for me, so I guess it's why I have procrastinated so much.
Deve, Just let me say Thank You, I have spent a lot of time looking over your work.
1949 3100
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 | Although the solenoids from a GM application and a Ford application look very similar, they mount differently. If you buy a solenoid, make sure it is for GM application. https://plus.google.com/u/0/1126369...5530771442&oid=112636930370126476644If you are going to keep your 216, it will really struggle in OD with 3.73 rears. 3.90 or 4.11 is much metter. | | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 85 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2009 Posts: 85 | Thanks Kenneth, I think my solenoid is good, at least with a jumper wire.
I do have a 55 or 56 235 from a car that was supposed to have been rebuilt but no documentation so I am not ready to put it in yet.
Long range plan is to turbocharge the 235 like the 60 I had in high school, but that is certainly a couple years off.
1949 3100
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