The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Question on Pelucid for bedwod

Has anyone used Pelucid POR 15 as a surface coating on their bedwood? Know this stuff is pricy, but is it worth it? :confused:

Brian - pricey rust-proofing paint for wood?? :confused:

Bill

"Pelucid is a rock-hard, crystal-clear, non-porous single- component topcoat. Pelucid can be sprayed or brushed over painted or unpainted steel, fiberglass, or wood. Pelucid will not yellow and is not UV sensitive. It is strengthened by exposure to moisture and will cure to a rock-hard glossy coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. Pelucid is tough, yet flexible, and has excellent wear and abrasion resistance as well as very good chemical and corrosion resistance."

tclederman, now let's see here... would you go with "Pelucid "?

ad,

No, I would not use a new product until I hear some good experiences from a few people. I posted the description for those people who might want to know something about the product that is being discussed.

By the way, I consider myself a southerner but you do not need to call me mam.

Tim

Exactly, tcelderman--wanted to know if anyone had used the product, and recommendations. Thanks.

Wood finishes for outdoor wood need to be flexable. In racing sail boats when wood is encapsulated with epoxy as with the W.E.S.T system(wood epoxy saturation technique) wood movement is always taken into account. Use an epoxy that is too hard and the wood "checks" or cracks even when it's covered with fiberglass.
My only concern with the por 15 paint would be it's ability to expand and contract with the wood movement.
This is a two edge sword. Hard finishes resist scratches but don't move, flexable finishes move but scratch more easily.
My choice for bed paint would be the original tar based for a black bed and a marine grade varnish for a clear coat.
Both require periodic refinishing because of scratches and that's why the metal strips were designed to be higher than the wood and therefore take the majority of the scratches.
Put as hard a finish as possible on the metal.

IMO
John Atherton
Wichita Forest Woodworks

Let's put this into perspective...My bedwood was original to the truck, only 2 of the 9 boards rotted through after 50 years of no care at all. If you show, you want to do what they did at the factory, if you haul stuff, if it never is going to see the inside of a garage, I'm sure you want weather protection. The summer I stepped through a bedboard while at the recycling facility I decided that after 52 years the old girl deserved a new bed.

I used found wood from a construction site (I don't call 'dumpster diving' stealing) and milled it on my home table saw to the correct dimensions for a '49 bed. I then painted the underside with a coat of Kilz as primer, then 2 coats of white housepaint. I wanted increased visibility when working underneath. I re-used the metal strips and replaced all the bolts with galvanized. I made my own bed blocks and protected them with a couple coats of housepaint. On the topside it actually came out too nice for me, I just used a pint of satin polyurethane until the can ran out. Cosmo\'s eight dollar bed wood

Thanks for all the reply's, and Cosmo, DARN NICE bed you have there! My plans are the Mar-K bed (Oak) with polished stainless steel rails. I have a friend that recommended this sealer, and was going to use it when he installs a new bed in his '57 3200. Just wanted to see if anyone out there had used this product yet--anyone? :confused:

Cosmo,
Nice wood finish. Dumpster diving? Will this sport be seen in the upcoming olympics? Have you qualified yet?