The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop In over my head -- 1953 GMC 3100 project

Sorry for the delay in making the video. I have been a bit busy lately.

I dont think there will be a need to transfer it. The new style still has the same plate on it for mounting. The worst that can happen is you would have to drill two holes that may not be there.

Awesome!

I offered the guy from San Antonio $350, which he turned down and said he could not do less than $800. I'm waiting to hear back from the local guy and the one in Houston

Learned the hard way:
In an add, "Removed for a V8 upgrade" does not mean "this motor was running so well, I thought I should remove it to save it from wearing out"

It's just a phatic expression, commonly used, widely accepted.

Good choices in your area there.
Brad

Point taken. I have purchased good 6 cylinder vehicles and put in a V8 for the VAROOOOOOOM factor. But it is true that poster should NOT, in my opinion, buy one he can't hear. Just thought I would give reference for pricing.

Thanks, bartamos! I'm liking that block for $175... But the seller didn't get back to me this evening and its 5.5 hours away. I may just spend my day off (Monday) driving up to Houston and back if I can come to terms with this guy. I found a few more that I'll be contacting in the am.

Good luck gusco. I've spent a fair amount of time looking around for you, or with your need in mind. What's listed above is about the norm as far as pricing ranges for 235s.

Chief, I'm with you on your comments. In all this "looking" at 235 availability, I've noted the "pulling for a V8" line everywhere. Truth? Sure, maybe, but that doesn't matter.

Not trying to get off topic, and the video posting/hosting offer still stands whenever you get time gusco. It'd be exciting to finally see. Live, in color, "235 Smoke"... just like the thread!

Brad

Not off topic at all, in my opinion. Anything to sort this mess out.
I got some footage this morning before coming out to work. I will upload the link as soon as I have it available.

Here is the video:

Well, you've been accurate in your descriptions the past few months; I want to say plumb the brakes & stitch that crack, then drive it, but that's me having wishful thinking.

Of course, I'm eager to hear from the more experienced members. Thanks for sharing your video. This will help in diagnosis. What temperature did it reach when you showed the radiator?

Brad

At about 3:35 it was nearing the 180F mark.

Well it took me a while to see the smoke but it did show itself didn't it!
I can see why you're concerned but it sounds like it'll run a while even if you have to add water every 20 miles or so... you won't know that till you actually give it a test drive. Under pressure it will leak more but you could drive it with the cap loose and just have it leak like it does now.... maybe.

Like Uncle Brad say's get it road ready brakes, wheel bearing repacked or replaced and the other low impact (wallet wise) items that you can check off a to do list and wait for the engine you KNOW you want when it shows itself.
10 hrs of work taking care of some of the things you'll need to do anyway instead of driving all day may help raise your motivation and outlook for the project as a whole, as well as give you a better knowledge of this engine's potential once it hits the road a while. Then decide if you want to stitch this crack or replace the block/complete engine.



KEEP THE WELDER

Sounds reasonable, but again I have an unanswered question: Why is an external crack causing smoking?
I have the master cylinder ready, but need to run the hard lines.

It's not the external crack that's causing the smoke.
Something else is going on. Rings, valve stem seals, we don't really know that yet. That's why we want to see it run awhile as in at least a couple tanks of gas through it.

I had an old Avanti 289 that smoked like california this summer but after running MMO through the gas as well as in the oil and a couple soaking periods with it in the cylinders it eventually cleared up enough that I could see out the rear view mirror . It smoked about like yours in the end.
My point is old engines go through their ups and downs when they've sat for long periods of time. Like achy joints loosen up after moving around and we/I want to see how much it changes after you get it going down the road not just 'awake' in the driveway.

Sounds very plausible. I'm feeling a little more inspired to plumb up the brakes and take a ride this Monday...

What little I know, your 2 hole valve cover indicates a 216 motor or a pre 54 235 or a 235 with studs added to receive a two hole cover. 1954 235 and up have 4 hole perimeter mounting not center 2 hole. You said is was 1955? something's not right. Their may be variations on big trucks and car motors regarding valve covers.

I see smoke, but its' not filling up the room/area? There are a lot of old trucks that smoke that much. I could not tell, because the camera did not stay on water drops, if it is seeping out or dripping from expansion plug or what. It does seem to be bubbling out but there is water forward and rear of the major area?? As said, the smoking has nothing to do with the water leak. Pour some stop leak (like BARS-Leak) in and drive. If you leave the cap off the water will be gone quick. Leave it on.
Forget welding, that takes heating the block first even if silver solder or brazing is done. It should be done with block out and stripped. Oil will come out of the casting and contaminate the repair, etc, etc. There is a HIGH risk of cracking it big time.
It would be nice to really clean the area and wire wheel it to observe type of crack or see if it's pin holes.

Just for S&G if you feel like running leak tests... you could throw a can of two of black pepper in it when you go for that drive. Got a Costco around?

I noticed that too. Gustavo says he has an 848 head on it. So someone must have just put the old style valve cover on it. I think it's the rings that you ground down that's causing it. Open the valve cover cap and see if there is a lot of blowby just after you shut it off.

Near the end of the video, where/when the crack is shown under the heat riser, I think an oil distributor would have been viewable if it is a low-pressure engine?

Maybe bartamos is right about it being a 235 "adapted" for a 2-bolt valve cover?

leaking block
low-pressure block

Right Tim. There is no 3 bolt plate below exhaust. Full pressure.

From a previous post: "I have a '53 GMC with a block labeled "3837004". Does this mean it has a Chevy 235 in it? The head reads "3835913".
I appreciate any help. I just picked this project up and I'm trying to ID the parts to make sure I get the right parts."
The consensus was a 55-57 Block with a 54-55 head. Due to the overlap being 55, I've been calling it a 55. The bore size, bearings, oil lines/pressure all indicate 235.

The 848 head is what is on the locally available, seized engine.

As you can see, Tim is the Go-To Guy.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=686804
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=802453

gusco,

I forget what was posted above. But, here is information about those casting codes:

3837004 - 1955-57 235 block
3835913 - 1954-55 235 head

If you find and post the head and block date casting codes, they will tell you a little more.

Will do.

That nice block in Houston has sold

Gusco
Sounds like you are in or near Corpus Christi as I am. I have a purple 52 Chevy pickup that has a few mild mods. We meet at the Whataburger on Staples right a cross the street from Parkdale Plaza, its a Walmart now. One of the guys also has a 54 Chevy truck, come on out most of us are there each Saturday by 1800 (06:00pm). It took me a while to find my way around the Hot Rod circles here but now I know a few people that can help. Drop by if your in the neighborhood, see u there. Woody

Thanks for the invite! I truly appreciate the support. I'm about two hours South. At the moment my truck isn't running and I'd have to show up in my Accord... which probably wouldn't fit in real well with a bunch of proper vehicles I would greatly appreciate any leads on a 235 over that way as well.

Gusco just sent u a PM, thanks Woody.

CCAD-Chorpus Christi Army Depot

I should have spelled the acronym out in the other thread, but I'm glad you're getting some local contacts now. Thx, kahoys!

Brad

Update: I spent all day running brake lines and may be able to take a drive Saturday. I found an engine in Austin that looks clean and the guy says he took it out of a running Chevy 210 who received it from a truck. The pictures show a nice engine, but also a clean shop (which I like to see because it generally means better maintenance and care over the vehicles. Anyways, guy's asking $550. Thoughts? I'm hoping he'll concede to a compression test bumping the starter to seal the deal. I would also hope he'd take $450 for it.

Emailed the guy a $450 offer, he came back with $500. I'll try to post pics in a bit.

You'll need to change the oil fill cap on the valve cover to a breather style oil fill cap, so the draft tube will work properly.

Thanks for the tip! I need some input on what the perceived value of the engine is in the stated conditions.
A new option came up today. I visited a shop with a few late 40s and early 50s cars and asked if they might have a 235 around. The worker quickly referred me to Kino, who had one in a '50 suburban chassis and her claims has not seen a mile since it was rebuilt. It looks nice and except that the water pump looks shorter. He said he'd look for the receipts for the rebuild, which he claims cost around $1040, and he'd sell for $1000. That's pretty high, but if he can prove it's rebuilt, that's lower than the cost to rebuild.

The one in Austin is still available at $500. The local seller flipped out when I asked for receipts and so that's off the table. I'm not in a rush, but these engines look like they're going pretty quick, so I'm trying to be decisive. This has not been a two week issue. It's been well over three months. I live in Alamo, Tx.

Oh, and I was set to go to Austin this weekend, but the owner loaned out his engine hoist so I may need to wait until next weekend... Unless any Austin Stovebolter reads this and helps me out.
I offered that guy $350 for just the engine. He said someone had already offered $400. So, I took it as sold.

I haven't heard much from you guys in the last few days and I really need your support. I'm pretty much ready to buy the $500 one in Austin this Saturday(the one on the photobucket link above). It looks clean... but I don't know too much about these engines. Thoughts?