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#1123018 09/07/2015 11:25 PM
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I need to replace a few of the captive 1/4" nuts that are used for the access panel on the lower doors on a 1950 3100. Any suggestions on where to buy them or how to do it?

Thanks,


Deron

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How are they captivated? Welded, pressed in, enclosed, swaged?
Picture? I can suggest fix if I know what it is. From what I see on internet, those are swaged or spot welded from the front and there is a recess in the sheet metal to accommodate the flange of the nut? Do you still have them? How many do you need to repair? This may work Upside down and pop rivet in place.
Also "Rivnuts" or equiv, some need special, expensive tool. You can also just thread a 1/4 thick bar stock and Flat Hd screw/rivet in place.... or you can cut/slice an adjacent hole/slot to receive a
Tinnerman


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Here is a picture from the interior side of door where the plate mounts. https://www.dropbox.com/s/2xh8pkg61bjjpuy/20150907_203541.jpg?dl=0.


Deron

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Renaissance Man
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I would get a square nut, and cut a square hole in the panel and weld the nut in place.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Good Pix, Thanks. Now post pictures of one's you actually want to replace. The one in pix is still in place?
Carl: Have you ever seen the Drill that drills square holes? Invented by the Japanese. Not a broach, not filed....drilled on a drill press!!! and you can drill a hex!!!!! SQUARE HOLE DRILL
Original Video


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OK. Here is a picture that shows: a hole with no nut, a nut installed, and the nut fixture. https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ah702d43wb5z36/20150908_075814.jpg?dl=0.


Deron

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Easy fix with the correct length Tinnerman. May have to flatten the turn up lip at radius a little to allow Tinnerman to lay flat. You also may have to trim some at the radius to get Tinnerman nut to reach to hole. Tinnerman is the brand name of an old "clip on nut" company. Then all those type became Tinnermans, like Helicoil is really helical coil insert. Hardware stores, like Ace, have a selection of Tinnermans. They come in machine screw sizes and sheet metal screw sizes. Always nice not to have to weld for non structural fastener especially if you don't have a welder.
BTW: Make sure you gently chase the good nuts while oiling threads. Just do a thread at a time, back and forth until tap gets thru. Get all the rust off that way and have fresh threads that won't tear nut loose.
Wire wheel and chase screws also.


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Originally Posted by bartamos
Easy fix with the correct length Tinnerman. May have to flatten the turn up lip at radius a little to allow Tinnerman to lay flat. You also may have to trim some at the radius to get Tinnerman nut to reach to hole. Tinnerman is the brand name of an old "clip on nut" company. Then all those type became Tinnermans, like Helicoil is really helical coil insert. Hardware stores, like Ace, have a selection of Tinnermans. They come in machine screw sizes and sheet metal screw sizes. Always nice not to have to weld for non structural fastener especially if you don't have a welder.
BTW: Make sure you gently chase the good nuts while oiling threads. Just do a thread at a time, back and forth until tap gets thru. Get all the rust off that way and have fresh threads that won't tear nut loose.
Wire wheel and chase screws also.
Good tips!, (Show off!) smile
Carl


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I know, I'm a Stovebloater. Thanks.


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I found something that is closer to what I need. Cage Nuts. http://www.mcmaster.com/#cage-nuts/=yw7qzz Thanks bartomos for leading me ti McMaster-Carr website.


Deron

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Says they are designed to mount into a square hole.


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Well, I will give it a try. The Tinnermans arn't long enough and i cant weld anything in that tight space. I will let you know the results.


Deron

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another option

Weld a nut on a small flat plate

Drill two holes for spot weld adjacent

Spot Weld from front.

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Originally Posted by DADS50
another option

Weld a nut on a small flat plate

Drill two holes for spot weld adjacent

Spot Weld from front.

Originally Posted by bartamos
You can also just thread a 1/4 thick bar stock and Flat Hd screw/rivet in place....
Same idea, no welding.



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Originally Posted by FLSTOVER
The Tinnermans arn't long enough and i cant weld anything in that tight space.
Originally Posted by bartamos
Easy fix with the correct length Tinnerman. May have to flatten the turn up lip at radius a little to allow Tinnerman to lay flat. You also may have to trim some at the radius to get Tinnerman nut to reach to hole.
The Tinnerman I posted has a 1/2" reach, so just cut a clearance notch in the door access opening until you get a 1/2" from hole. Slip it on...DONE! EASY! CHEAP!


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I was just addressing the comment about welding in a tight spot.

Pointing out you can spot weld from the front.



The holes where blown out on my transmission cover. Oversized for the screws.

I used a thread sert. It pop rivets threads in sheet metal
Here a pic , you can see one on the bottom left.
...pic...

Handy tool. But I wouldn't buy one for just one use.



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DADS50: Roger that. Was trying to show poster it's the same type of plate fix, but no welding. Not addressed at you. Many ways to fix if you have welder or special tools. Trying to suggest what's easy and no fabbing. Maybe the nut he likes is easy. I like the Tinnerman. It does not need a major nut, it's just a cover.


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Well, the nuts from McMaster-Carr worked with no cutting or welding.


Here is the packing list with p/n. https://www.dropbox.com/s/x02lhqb41arxkgk/20150915_183121.jpg?dl=0

Hope it helps someone.


Deron

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Awesome fix! Thanks for sharing it.
Carl


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Das ist gut, ya?


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Originally Posted by bartamos
Das ist gut, ya?
What does the color of his cat have to do with anything?!


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Originally Posted by 52Carl
What does the color of his cat have to do with anything?!
Dummkopf! dang


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn

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