The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors whisker install

Got my whiskers lined up with the holes, now how do I bend those staples over right and tight the first time, thanks HUGH

me too me too ?

Got with 3 pair of vice grips and a wood block and super tight too, and no boo boo's.

What year truck are you working on? Are they new reproduction or original?

Mike B

This is for my 1952 Chevy truck 1/2 ton, and the whiskers are repro. One door down and one to go. A lot of good info here.

Them staples are hard. I used a combination of tools. First issue was to locate the holes. Then I used needle nose pliers to start the bend and a body dolly to prevent the staple from rotating with the pressure. Finished, with 2 pair of vise grips. 1 to hold the staple flush, and 1 to finish the bend. What I did do to keep the stable was a bit of 3M adhesive(black weather strip) on the back side. They won't move after that sets up. I was not expecting the staples to bee that stiff. The old ones were soft and came out rather easy.

Ok, new guy here... what are we talking about because it sounds like I need to pay attention (the "no boo-boo" part)

Brad

I was referring to boo boo's as no scratched paint, no bent metal frame, and still got my fingers and skin, also the staples went down straight and secure the very first time. Make sure to use a wood block on the opposite side and use needle nose pliers to start the bend and a pair of vice grips with a lip to clear the frame and bite the staples hard and true and watch your fingers.

Does anyone have pictures of this part of the assembly, my window felts look strange when lined up on inner trim piece.

didn't come with staples ,will glue work?

hacker, I used the 3M weather strip adhesive on my 52panel about 3 years ago. Still holding up nicely.

Which 3M # adhesive, ?

Also, shape of whisker seems odd, does anyone have a picture?

Finished anti-rattle strip installed with staples, 1950:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/161163307

dg

And if DG didn't have so much yard work to do, he would have made the giant nuclear powered stapler similar to what GM used for those staples.
Carl

Not for a couple of trucks Carl, but I did make the staples
using SS aircraft safety wire. Soft and is easy to close with
the reworked jaws on a pair of cheap HF pliers. Get them started
with needle nose then close them with the reworked pliers.

dg

This answer may be a little late for the original poster. Here's how I bent the staples to attach fuzzy wipes to the window garnish in my '54 ...
< CLICK >

- Lonnie

One correction I noticed in a reply Lonnie. You said that won't
work on the single piece window doors. Sure it will, my '50 has
single piece windows, i.e., no vent window.
Maybe that's why I ground the special shape into the pliers jaws.


dg

That's correct, Denny. I believe that the locking pliers from Lowe's are too thick to fit a non-vent door without grinding the jaws thinner. (I'm relying on my old dull memory as I type this, so take it with a grain of salt.)

I have some pre-51 window garnish but it's boxed up, so I can't confirm my statement.

- Lonnie

Found an old photo of garnishes for doors without vent windows (left) and doors with vent windows (right). More room for pliers to bend the staples in garnish for doors with vent windows.
> '47-'50 on left, '51-'55 on right

- Lonnie

Denny,Lonnie
thanks, the pcs I received do not match the trim, so I will bend them to match and attach.
Then I have to get brave enough to get near newly painted truck....

Whiskers from The Filling Station have the correct bend.

- Lonnie

Lonnie,
wish I had known that before, but these will suffice.
still trying to decide between staples as Denny made or glue as
achipmunk said.

If you get the ones that aren't bent....send them back!!!!!
When you try to bend them they will open up and the felt will
come out of the crimp.
That's what the pictures of the bending jig is in my album. In
order to bend them correctly the bead needs to be restrained
from spreading apart.

dg

they came bent, but do not match trim piece

With out a picture, it's hard to tell just what you have.

dg

The bends were about 1 1/2" inboard of the bends on trim pc,

I just finished the passengers side door replacing the outer rubber, whiskers and the window channel. The whiskers that came were straight but I carefully and slowly bent them with a good set of pliers. When I was done it matched what was there which I believe was original. That means the chrome beads and fuzzy stuff between looked like the original in a staggered finish; longer on the inside radius and shorter on the outside radius. I'll take pictures of the drivers door when I do it. I attached the whiskers with very small screws. I held it in place and drilled a hole through the whisker and into the trim in roughly the same location the staples were. The screw had a small head and when I tighten it down it buried itself in the felt and you can not see it. The screws were about 3/16" long.

Since being all original is not important to me I came up with a simpler plan.
My whiskers are just a piece of hook fastener. As in ; " Hook &Loop ". Cut to length and applied. Then trimmed the top edge to get the radius look. Worked just fine and no window rattles. 3M adhesive on material holds tight. Just a thought for anyone who is not that fussy to go through all the attachment process of the stock piece.

I just used small pop rivots. worked for me

with plenty of access to 3M products, I should have looked at that option, and have some of that product in my sample kit

Jacksun and just-a-hacker, over the years I've glued them, used staples and screws along with pop rivets.
I love the 3M glue but also like rivets. I've found the 1/8" rivets are just to big for me personally and wonder if anyone, maybe you Jacksun, had used the 1/16 size. Do they hold good enough??? Hard to find the 1/16 unless you order them.
I figure a couple SMALL ones and some 3M the process would go even better.
Jacksun, did you use the 1/16?