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painting my engine #1121635 08/30/2015 2:25 AM
Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 164 Ohio D DJMTruck 'Bolter
DJMTruck 'Bolter D Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 164 Ohio	I'd like to clean up & paint the engine in my '53 3100 but I can't pull it to do so. My plan is to have the valve cover, oil filter cannister, air filter assbly & horns blasted & I'll spray them. Is it impossible for me to paint the head & block without pulling the engine? I plan to clean them first by powerwashing. Any advice/tips are appreciated.Thanks ~Denny 1953 Chevy 3100 w/1960 261 cid, 848 head \| Weber 32/36 progressive 2 barrel carb. \| Three on the tree & 3:55 torque tube \| 12 V w/Gener-Nator & 6 V starter In the Gallery Forum 1998 Chevy Suburban 350 ci awd/4wd

Re: painting my engine DJMTruck #1121665 08/30/2015 5:51 AM
Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Virginia 5 52Carl Renaissance Man
52Carl Renaissance Man 5 Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Virginia	A steam jenny would work much better than a standard pressure washer. Cold water tends to just move the greasy oil around and not remove it. Pre-treatment with degreaser might work with a standard pressure washer. Carl 1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition \| 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

Re: painting my engine DJMTruck #1121703 08/30/2015 3:23 PM
Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 2,232 New Braunfels, TX ndkid275 Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
ndkid275 Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 2,232 New Braunfels, TX	i painted mine in the chasis. Later, i pulled it when i realized the rubber in motor mounts needed to be replaced. needless to say, she got repainted. Chris 1951 Chevy pickup 3100 In the Stovebolt Gallery Discussion in the DITY

Re: painting my engine DJMTruck #1121710 08/30/2015 4:45 PM
Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Nevada D DADS50 Shop Shark
DADS50 Shop Shark D Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Nevada	https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=819665 Quote from above thread Originally Posted by LonnieC I finished painting my engine and engine bay with the engine in the truck. Not a speedy task. Seemed like I would spend a couple of hours masking, then paint for a few minutes. I removed most of the parts to clean and paint off of the engine. Didn't remove the carb or lines because I didn't want to create leaks. Thanks to DavidF for the aluminium foil masking tip in another thread. I used almost three rattle cans and a quarter of a pint of brush-on of Filling Station engine paint. I found some areas on the engine that I missed. Can't touch them up now - already getting oil on them from oozing valve cover etc. I thought that I had the job planned out pretty well, but I ended up masking and painting multiple times in the same areas. Suggest painting the frame areas first, then the engine, and the inner fenders last. (I painted the engine first.) Used Calyx on the rusty exhaust manifold. Looks great and was simple to use. Also used it on accelerator, brake, and clutch springs. Here are the paints that I used: ITEM / / BRAND / / PART # / / DESCRIPTION / / SHEEN / COLOR (Notes) Engine / / Filling Station / / FS-359 & FS-119P / / Engine Enamel / / Dark Gray Generator / / Dupli-Color / / DE1635 / / Engine Enamel / / Ford Semi Gloss Black Starter / / Dupli-Color / / DE1635 / / Engine Enamel / / Ford Semi Gloss Black Generator Brackets / / Dupli-Color / / DE1635 / / Engine Enamel / / Ford Semi Gloss Black Starter Rods / / Dupli-Color / / DE1635 / / Engine Enamel / / Ford Semi Gloss Black Heater Hose Bracket / / Rustoleum / / 7798830 / / Protective Enamel / / Semi Gloss Black Frame / / Rustoleum / / 7777830 & 7777502 / / Protective Enamel / / Satin Black Steering Box / / Dupli-Color / / DE1651 / / Engine Enamel / / Cast Coat Iron Inner Fenders / / Rustoleum / / 7777830 / / Protective Enamel / / Satin Black Headlight Buckets / / Rustoleum / / 209584 / / Automotive Aerosol / / Semi-Gloss Black Headlight Inner Bucket / / a coat of Rustolium aluminum and a mist of Rustoleum Galvanized Fan / / Rustoleum / / 209584 / / Automotive Aerosol / / Semi-Gloss Black Air Cleaner / / Rustoleum / / 209584 / / Automotive Aerosol / / Semi-Gloss Black Coil Bracket / / Rustoleum / / 257884 / / Automotive Enamel / / Gloss Clear Coil / / Dupli-Color / / DE1635 / / Engine Enamel / / Ford Semi Gloss Black Radiator / / Rustoleum / / 7798830 / / Protective Enamel / / Semi Gloss Black (Similar to Auto Semi, I had more Protect available) Steering Column / / Dupli-Color / / DE1634 / / Engine Enamel / / GM/CHRY Low Gloss Black Flat, slight grey tint - similar to column inside cab) Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3 Pic 4 Pic 5 Pic 6 I posted the results of painting the frame and inner fenders in another thread. Thanks for your help in pointing me in the right direction. DADS50 YouTube 1950 chevy 3100

Re: painting my engine DJMTruck #1121787 08/31/2015 2:07 AM
Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 155 East Tennessee R RdsLessTaken 'Bolter
RdsLessTaken 'Bolter R Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 155 East Tennessee	Like LonnieC, I did an engine repaint recently in situ. Hours of tedious masking and covering for a few minutes of spraying followed by more of the same. My engine was fairly clean so I only had to do a good clean up with solvent and rags to remove any oily residue. Remove everything you can like, breather, oil filter, distributer cover, plugs and wiring and starter the more the better and paint separately. A few areas under the manifold were better reached with a small artists brush, and I still have some areas to get to later. I used Dupli-Color hi temp Cast Coat Iron Gray for the block, and POR 15 gray for the manifold. I tried the Dupli-Color Ford Gray DE1611, but it is too light and blue for my taste. I found the Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch to be very good for blacks. http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b542/RdLessTaken/IMG_9186.2sm_zpse3t6bmj9.jpg

Re: painting my engine RdsLessTaken #1121797 08/31/2015 2:55 AM
Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 815 Wa. 5 53Movinon Shop Shark
53Movinon Shop Shark 5 Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 815 Wa.	This post is timely because I have the same situation where I do not need to remove the engine. But I will be removing the front fenders to install new welt and that will help when I paint the engine area. Both examples look really good. Steve

Re: painting my engine DJMTruck #1121799 08/31/2015 3:00 AM
Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 164 Ohio D DJMTruck 'Bolter
DJMTruck 'Bolter D Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 164 Ohio	Thanks for the tips & the pics. What beautiful work! I hope I can do half as well ~Denny 1953 Chevy 3100 w/1960 261 cid, 848 head \| Weber 32/36 progressive 2 barrel carb. \| Three on the tree & 3:55 torque tube \| 12 V w/Gener-Nator & 6 V starter In the Gallery Forum 1998 Chevy Suburban 350 ci awd/4wd

Re: painting my engine DJMTruck #1121826 08/31/2015 5:37 AM
Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 Orlando, Florida L LonnieC 'Bolter
LonnieC 'Bolter L Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 Orlando, Florida	Hey Gus, I haven't been on the board for quite a while. Thanks for reviving my old thread about engine painting. The engine still looks pretty good. I recently painted the engine in my '55 MG TF-1500 without removing it from the car. The head and exhaust / intake were off of the MG so it was pretty easy. A couple of things to add: 1) I cleaned the 3104 engine and the MG engine with my $9.00 Harbor Freight Engine Cleaning Gun. Use Gunk and kerosene, or straight kerosene. Then Dawn and hot water through the HF gun, and rinse with hot water through the gun. Blow dry. The gun uses very little liquid - perhaps less than a pint. I find a lot of uses for it. A toilet brush works well to scrub hard to reach places. 2) High quality paint will flow smoothly on cast iron surfaces with a brush. I used Filling Station engine paint on the truck and Bill Hirsch engine paint on the MG. Both were superb. Like RdsLessTaken, I found that artist's brushes were helpful. 3) An air brush will get paint into locations that may be difficult with a gun or brush. I used brush, air brush, detail gun, HVLP gun, and rattle can - depending on the location. 4) Spend extra time on the valve cover and push rod cover. Prime and wet sand until mirror smooth, then spray. Do the same when painting the air cleaner black and other stamped parts. At least feather the chips on the inner fenders before painting black. 5) Finish with period correct decals. - Lonnie - Lonnie My '54 3104 Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post. lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt. OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all

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