The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop My 1955 235 camshaft install

Bit of a cross post that I am also updating on another truck site. Thought i would share on this site also.

Been sitting around procrastinating with the install until late yesterday. Figured if I never got to it soon the season would be over and the truck in storage. First this about the install I was surprised about is getting access to the camshaft area. I have read lots of different installation techniques for the install ones that that say the full front clip has to be removed or the engine has to be drastically titled upward, and the best possible way is to fully remove the engine.

After 5 min of taking a very detailed look at the truck setup I don't quite fully understand why all so mush has to be done. I removed the hood latch shroud, front grille side retaining bolts from inside the fenders, removed the top two grille support cross braces and the 4 top bolts that hold the grille to the front face of the front fenders. The bumper was left on with only the most forward bolt left in so the unit can swing slightly down. The grille came out easily as one piece.



Next the rad was drained and unbolted and puller directly up and out of the rad support brace. This is where I'm confused........im getting full access to the cam area with nothing on the way and I never had to remove anything major as some others were indicating i would have to.

Grille Removed

The crank pulley was easily pulled off with a puller, and the fan components removed.

Rad Removed

Pulley / Fan Removed

Next was the removal of the oil pan for the only reason to get access to the two timing gear cover bolts that are installed from the inside. The pan was easy to pull off with the truck on stands. After the two bolts were out the timing cover was removed. I will be drilling out and tapping the two holes from the front of the engine just in case Ii ever need back into the timing gear area in the future and then I can keep the oil pan on. Still looks nice and clean inside. Nothing concerning was found in the bottom of the oil pan.

Inside Engine

Was getting ready to clean up the oil pan and get it ready for the reinstall and found out I forgot to order a new pan gasket set. Now I'm on a mission to try to find one at a local Napa or someplace like that. If all goes good today I should have time to rotate the engine to TDC, remove the distributor and remove the rest of the cam, and lifter components.

Yep, very ez to pull a cam that way. No need for all the other fuss. Just remember to keep the push rods and lifters in the order they were removed. Also, assuming you are changing cams double check the lifter wear as they will be worn following the old cam. Or do you have new lifters too?

100% all new components

Yeah, that's how its done alright. I documented that in detail here: www.devestechnet.com/Home/Project1959235

I had to change my NEW cam because the grinder did something very strange and I couldnt keep it running very well. Went to the stock cam and life is perfect. No idea. But I can RELATE!

With the headache of all of the hard-to-get-to fasteners holding the grille in place, and the high risk of scratching everything near the grille upon reassembly, I would be tempted to remove the entire front clip as a unit. Also in the mix is the rust factor involving the ubiquitous fasteners holding the grille and other associated parts in place. I have read that it is not too difficult to pull off with two people. It would also seem to me to be much quicker. Not that many fasteners holding the front clip to the truck.
Carl

Almost finished!!

Got the timing gear cover off out to find that when it was rebuilt 4000 miles ago they installed a new aluminum gear. That was nice so i reused it and kept the other new one i just bought along with the thrust plate for my 261 build I am also currently doing.

[IMG]http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l170/mazdacub/1949%20Chev/IMG_2871.jpg[/IMG]

Pulled the old lifters and push rods and swapped out the bumpstick and replaced with the new one. Installed the new lifters and rods. Was going to do the springs but something did not look correct with the spring tool i bought. before i opened it i knew it was for a rocker and stud setup. Looks like the old springs will be used for a bit till i have an excuse to remove the head one day.

[IMG]http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l170/mazdacub/1949%20Chev/IMG_2872.jpg[/IMG]

Most of the job on this project was spent on my back under the truck cleaning the old gasket material from the block and installing the oil pan. What a pain in the [censored]!

Today is oil day! going to fill her up and prime it up nice and good and reinstall the distributor.

Also waiting for a crankshaft drilling / tap kit and I can finish the install.

Don't get in to big of a hurry to prime the oil system. Most if not all of the oil will seep back to the pan in a day or so. If it's going to be a while on the balancer, just wait to prime the engine right before start up, then you are guaranteed good oil pressure asap.

Joe

Did a prime to just make sure all is still flowing correct. I will do it again when im just ready to start it up.

I hope this upgrade was worth the effort and down time.

Anyone know of a tool that can allow me to change the springs like the rocker stud tool used on v8's and such while keeping the head on?

I made a tool using an old spark plug and an air compressor fitting. I drilled out the center of the plug (the ceramic) and found the compressor fitting was close enough that JB Weld held them together fine. Remove the rocker arm assembly, get the piston to the bottom of travel, shoot compressed air into the cylinder and you can use a small (topside) valve spring compressor to remove and replace springs easily. The air pressure will keep the valves up while you're doing this. Just work quickly and don't lose pressure until you're finished...

About 10 feet of 3/16" or 1/4" nylon rope is all you need. Roll the piston to the bottom of the stroke, cram as much rope through the spark plug hole as possible, then squeeze it tight against the valves by turning the crankshaft. No air needed, and no way to drop a valve into the cylinder. Obviously, leave a little rope hanging out!

Here's the spring tool you need:

http://www.tooltopia.com/_img/KDT/KDT2078.jpg

K-D Tools and several other manufacturers sell similar items.

Jerry

Rope is the only way I trust when the head is still on. My '85 Dodge 318 was so weak, air pressure would spin the engine over when I tried to change the valve seals. I just couldn't keep enough air pressure in the cylinder to get a valve loose.

Joe

Quick question related to this post:

Does the front bumper need to be dropped or removed before the grill can be removed?

Thanks,

Bill

No.

Take the rear 2 bolts out of the 3 for the bumper mounts. This will allow the bumper to tip down and give you more room.

Got it all finished up on Friday / Saturday. Got my crank drill / install kit from Jerry and got to work friday afternoon. Your payment was sent up sat morning Jerry as i was an [censored] and forgot to send it last Wednesday. You should see it in a few days.

After drilling the crank hole that took about 1 hour to just go 1.25" deep i took the old balancer to the shop and resurfaced the center area to ensure the bolt washer would sit flush.

Drill Time!

Installation was easy and pulled right on with the installation kit.

Pulley Installed

Installing the rest of the removed parts went faster than i thought they would. Did a cold valve adjustment and did a the best i could to set the timing so it would run when started. The break in was done with new break in oil and bounced around 1500 - 2000 rpm for about 15-20 min. After the 20 min the valves needed a hot readjust as they they expanded and tightened up, the vacuum gauge also confirmed that as it was bouncing around.

The fine tuning was up next. The carb idles were increased as it would run rough and the full truck would shake. It now sitting at about 600-650 rpm and its almost as smooth as it was stock. Dialed the vacuum in to get the most on the dial then slightly backed it off for now. The max vacuum I can get with the new cam is 15 inches as compared to the stock 17 inches i was getting before.

The carbs also took a fair bit of leaning on the idle screw this time around before it would run funny. The valves talk much more now, even after driving around for a hour and re checking the valves they chatter more. Im guessing its from the new cam lobe profiles.

So after all that reading here is what i got out of the install engine related.

It Idles almost stock. Slight more rpm needed at idle and is has a slight deep rump tone in the exhaust. I love that because it sounds like something is hiding under the hood.

Bottom end feels changed just a fraction. It still pulls nice and smooth from starting but you can feel it lacking a bit from stock till you get going at 1200 rpm. When getting above the 1900 rpm ish area is now when you feel what the cam did. No longer does it fall on its face when it hits 2000rpm but rather just keeps going. Above 2000 rpm before was just a bunch of noise with little gain. Now at 2200 rpm it pulls, 2600 rpm pulls, 3000 rpm pulls, you get the point. At around 3400rpm is when it tops off and falls on its face.

When cruising between the 2000 rpm and 3000 rpm range now the engine sounds like its not struggling. It runs so smooth and even keeps a nicer lower exhaust tone. the engine now just makes a heavy hum at a higher rpm rather than a loud chatter. When putting the pedal to the floor you also notice a different rasp. Its a lower tone but still loud aggressive rasp.

I think the install was worth it. More driving time will bring up more comments from me im sure. I think its safe to say im going to install the same cam in my 261 build.

"I love it when a plan comes together!"
Jerry

Only issue im having now is a got a oil leak from the front. Looks like it either the new timing cover to damper pulley seal or possibly the timing cover to the block. Looks like the rad might have to come out again to fix that issue. Good news is that it seems to not leak anymore towards the rear like i did before.

Good info and writeup.

Those chrome dress-up kits are notorious for leaks. They're great for a trailer queen or a show truck that never sees any road mileage to speak of- - - -not so much for trucks that actually get driven!
Jerry