The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Uh oh! Need some advice about a no-start

I only wish!, Dads50. This is from a 35# block that fell on my head back in '09 at work, which ended my career as an Ironworker. Not only headaches, but neck, mid and lower back pain, and a shoulder surgery, to boot. As much as I hate taking these pills, they let me live a "normal" (almost) life, so until something better comes along, looks like this is my life. This is also why I, with the help of "Mother's Little Helpers", still work out and run 4 miles every other day (as I've done since I was 14), which really helps a lot with my irritability and lowers my level of pain some. Have to take 2 or 3 painkillers to accomplish this, but, it's worth it to me. It actually makes me feel better. After the injury in 2009, and 9 months of work comp doing very little, I retired at 51 on disability. Some friends ask me how I can do the PT and run if I'm 'disabled', and all I can say to them is, "I'd hate for people to have to be around me if I didn't". It just means I have to stop doing things earlier than before, my sleep patterns are crazy and after a day of 'working' on anything, it takes a day or two to recover. But at least I'm still alive and not paralyzed, which is what the doctors all say I should be right now. Thanks for your good advice, though. I appreciate that! Lee

waiting to see what his problem is, I have a fresh 216 and have problems starting without charger boost.
it is a 12 volt battery with a 6 volt starter
usually after a day of sitting the engine will not turn over ,starter acts like battery is dead.
have replaced battery and starter switch.( nothing else attached to system at this point.)

I just reread this thread and see no where a mention of what the gauge of battery ground strap is... Big fat jumper cables still usually only have a few strands of wire running through them.
They carry volts ok but the AMPS are left waiting to emigrate in the Battery.

ok, back again. Last night I went out and tried hippie's idea, and sure and behold, the lights went out when I hit the starter (without the key being on). I don't know if I left the parking lights on, or if the battery was low (it tested at around 13v on my voltmeter, if that was accurate). Anyway, I took my battery charger out and stuck it on the battery without taking off the cables, and almost immediately, when I hit the starter pedal, I at least heard a click. Since it was late, and dark, I took the battery inside and charged it all night. Had a doc's appointment this morning, but when I got home later, I put the battery back in and hit the button, but got a terrible high pitched grinding sound. Not good. It's made me re-think the starter problem, so in the morning I'm going to go out and put the old starter back in and see if it may actually be good. NAPA already told me I could bring the other one back, especially if it isn't doing it's job. Also, the battery cables are heavy. The ground cable looked pretty light weight when I put in the new battery this spring, so I used a heavy gauge section of medium duty welding lead to make a new cable for that. There is also a 1 1/2" webbed ground strap from the firewall to the bell housing just behind and above the starter. I'll report back after I try the other starter.

showme, that ground strap goes from the bell housing above the starter to the FRAME. The neg bat cable goes from bat to the frame completing the ground circuit.

Great news!! It's up and running again, and after too many times pulling the original, changing the top switch, then changing out the old one to the new one, it turns out the old one was good in the first place, and that somehow, the battery had gotten run down. After charging it all night, I tried it with the new starter, which sounded awful, so I thought I'd try the old one again. I took the new, overnighted switch off and put the old original back on, then fired it up. Just shook my head. I know the voltmeter was showing almost 13 when I checked it, but it's working now. Took the new one back to NAPA, got my $82 back ($62 + $20 core charge), and had them do a quick test on my NAPA battery while I was there. He said it wasn't quite up to 13V, but the machine was saying that it was good. So, I'm happy. Thanks for all the helpful hints, especially you, hippie. That was the one that turned everything around for me.

mtneer mike- you are correct. It was dark when I looked at it and I thought it was leading back, not over.

Thanks again, all. I was sure getting frustrated. I'm thinking I must have been a little too over confident about the old rig, so I needed some time in the 90* heat under the hood to rattle my cage. Again, much obliged to everyone for helping me out. Now, let's get that beer out of the fridge and celebrate!

Hi, showme, glad that trick worked for you. I use the KISS system (Keep It Simple Stupid ).A few years ago I went to the local swap meet in the fall and it was dark and cloudy out so I had my headlights on and when I parked the 49 1/2 ton (6 volt ) I was asked to back up about 3 feet and the truck would not start,no electrical power at all, so I pushed the truck 3 feet back down hill with help and went to the meet. As I was looking at all the old and rusty parts I was thinking about the truck so when I got back to the truck I turned on the headlights and no lights so I checked the battery and found one of the battery cable clamp had split, so I wiggled the clamp and used a Fred Flinstone hammer ( rock )to tighten the clamp, the truck started up and I was able to drive home to my tools and meters. I replaced the battery cables and ends with 4/0 welding cable, almost heater hose size,( as the brits say, it fell off the back of a lorry). Now the starter spins the engine over like it is on 12 volts. Have fun Brian