The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1950 3100 Steering Box/Column

I am removing a cab from a 1950 3100. I need to remove the steering column. Before I found out that you cannot take the column off the steering box, I attempted to do just that. I removed the 4 bolts and turned the steering wheel till the worm gear was nearly out but it stopped and wouldn't go further. I did not force it and turned it back together and reinstalled the bolts. My question is...did I ruin it? And, if not, is there an adjustment on the box to tighten up the steering? Its real loose.

You need a Factory Truck Manual. The procedure for adjustment is in there. As long as you didn't feel any tightness when you took the mast part way off, you should be OK. Too far and you will damage the ends of the ball channels (this will make more sense once you read the Manual).
Carl

Can you explain tightness? It turned out and back in very freely.

Conrad,

Do you have a Shop Manual?

There is one on-line: adjustment procedures

I wouldn't use a steering box after it was subjected to that. Take it out properly and see what is left of it.

This may provide some further insight for you.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/sets/72157632210242370

Remove the Pitman arm and pull the sector gear out the side. Then you can remove the shaft. I doesn't sound like you did anything that would hurt the box.

That would get it out, but then how you gonna reinstall it
Chuck?
Someone once posted that they could be removed/installed from
the bottom with out a lift.
Never tried it that way, I rebuilt mine when the front clip was
off. It seems to me that you would have to have a lift to get
it out or in from the bottom.
dg

Denny you are right except he just wants to remove it to remove the cab.

Right, this comes up every so often Chuck. I was just asking to
stimulate some discussion, because someone else might want to
service/rebuild their gear with the front clip and cab still on
the truck.
It always appeared to me, that one would have to have the truck
up on some four foot high jack stands to do it with out a lift.

DG

Denny And others, On my 59 I changed the steering box twice without having the truck on a lift. It was jacked up as high as my 2 1/2 ton floor jack would raise it. With jack stands underneath the front of the frame, the box came out without any problems.
I know most of you are working on AD style trucks, (wish mine was) but mine is a task force, so it may be different removing the box. Just my 2 cents worth.

It is possible to "rebuild" the box while still in place. I could not get all the play out of my steering despite several adjustments. I looked at trying to remove the box with the truck totally assembled and determined I could not do it. By removing the seat I was able to withdraw the mast into the cab far enough to be able to remove the steering shaft. Turned out I didn't have the lower bearing properly seated and destroyed it. I was able to replace the parts and get the shaft back in. That was the hardest part since the inner fender was still in place. I didn't think I was going to be able to reinsert the shaft without damage to it or the inner fender but in the end it worked. Truck steers straight as an arrow now.

IIRC, I took off the steering wheel, took out the bolts and collar under the dash, then went and took the box mounting bolts out (big mistake, should've taken off the pitman arm first. Oh yeah, use the correct tools! Ball joint splitters are NOT the correct tool.) I then slid the box/mast down between the engine and frame, when the mast cleared the firewall I tipped the whole kabootle towards the radiator and commenced to fish it out of the compartment.

Tim

Harbor Freight sells a 12-ton jack stand that has a working
height of 30". I've got one set of those, never had the nerve
to sit under two tons of steel that was on them, 30" in the
air.
But....that might be high enough to snake the complete
steering column out from the bottom. Be just my luck once I
got it all jacked up and loose that I'd find the jack stand in
the way and have to start over.
I might add, that I wouldn't want to try rebuilding a steering
gear when it was still behind the sheet metal.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I took mine out and reinstalled it with the truck sitting on conventional jack stands (were it's lived for years). Radiator in, cab and clip on. Just dropped the it forward and down till it cleared then back up and out the top. Pitman was off of course.

Really???!!! Well I need to give that a try this winter on my
'54. Like to start getting that ready for the road next year.
It does look like it would drop out in front of the axle. But
it looks like the exhaust manifold and generator may get in
the way, but it's hard to tell till it's pulled loose.
I've always heard it had to drop out straight from the bottom
and I've never had the occasion to remove it with all the
sheet metal still on.
Thanks Rick,
dg

Yep- I've been following for that very reason.

Brad

when I first rebuilt my steering box ,I did as he did and rotated shaft back into box without removing adjuster and ruined bottom bearing.
started over with a new thing learned.
once I got it set ,I just worked around it on everything else

Remember mines a Blue Chip not an AD.
Your scenery may vary.

The more I look at it the more I think you're right. I took my
1" tape out and set it at 48" and with my 3600 sitting on the
floor it dang near looks like it would drop out and clear the
firewall.

dg