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#1118872 08/13/2015 2:23 PM
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Shop Shark
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I'm getting ready to pull the engine from the truck to install my new cam and was also thinking about changing out the valve springs. I already have the new set of springs. The springs in the engine now were reused during the last rebuild so as for as I know they are 100% original.

I was wondering if anyone has had any issues with using the compressed air method to the cylinder chambers. I already bought that air fitting kit also and the special valve spring compressor lever. Looks simple enough to do before i actually lift the engine out of the truck. I take it its also a good idea to set each piston to TDC as im working with that cylinder as if something happens the valve will not drop all the way into the chamber correct? Any other things I should know about.?

Last edited by wolffcub; 08/13/2015 2:24 PM.
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'Bolter
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Do not ask how I know however once you have it on TDC place in high gear, brake set and wheels chocked. This is to prevent the engine from turning due to pressure on the piston. Mtneermike


1953 Chevy 3100
261 and SM420
53Chevy 3100
1953 Mack Firetruck
1972 Porsche 911
1986 Honda Goldwing
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Another method is to push several feet of small-diameter rope into the spark plug hole and turn the crankshaft to cram the combustion chamber full. No way for a valve to fall into the cylinder that way, and no need for air pressure! About 10 feet of 1/4" rope is required.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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So just pack the cylinder full of rope then hand turn it over slowly till it compresses the rope... i like it. Sounds easy. And if i do something wrong i got rope to hang myself.

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5
'Bolter
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Rope thing works, been there done that.


Brian
1955.2 3100 Truck
The older I get the more dangerous I am!!!!!
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'Bolter
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I replaced my cam with the engine still in the truck and it went smooth. Are you pulling it for another reason? Good luck and if you lose a keeper let me know as I have a cup full of spares. I would also suggest a new thrust washer/retainer if you're pressing a new gear on your new cam.








1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod
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Crusing in the Passing Lane
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I believe all camshaft renewals require new or re ground lifters, otherwise uneven wear on the lifters will unevenly wear the new cam!


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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I have all new parts. Cam, cam gear, thrust plate, lifters, push rods , springs, chrome gear cover, new gaskets.

I would like to keep the engine in but im not liking the idea of having to remove my chrome grill. It was awkward to put in and i know getting it out will be lots of work. But maybe its a good idea. Can you elaborate on what you had to take off the front end to get the cam out?

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[censored] curt give me a call!!!! time for drinks!

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'Bolter
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IMO it's a lot less work to pull the clip in 1 pc. provided there's a couple helpers around. I'll give you a shout this weekend and see if I can make time to come over.


1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod
You Tube

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