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Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
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over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 19
J
New Guy
New Guy
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 19
This is the first time I've had a body done by Redi-strip along with having the phosphate coating applied. If anyone has any helpful tips or advice on how to proceed on prep work, etc. I'd like to hear from you. I'd like this paint job to last a long,long, long, time!

Thanks,
John

48 Burb
55 1st 1/2 ton
52 1/2 ton
other iron stored at a friends so my wife doesn't throw me out!


JohnRJoyner
48 Suburban,55 1st 1/2 ton, 53 GMC
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,179
Red dot, center of chest ...
Red dot, center of chest ...
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,179
Look in the "Poundin' Tin" archive for the wonderful posts from MARTINSR about painting and prep work.


Paul Schmehl CI 6
geek@stovebolt.com
Stovebolt Staff: Geek
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 114
J
Member
Member
J Offline
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 114
John,

Another good place to look for info is the AutoBody Store BBS - http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index

Basically, they'll probably advise you to use Epoxy Primer. The phosphate coating is probably good for a week or so of protection. Do they put anything else on it? My local strip place puts water soluable oil on that must be completely washed off before any painting...


Jim
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 477
K
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
K Offline
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 477
i've been interested in this process for my 51. how much does it cost? going to avoid the blaster as much as i can. i like industrial grade primers shot in thin coats to use to find high and low spots, then apply a heavier to coat to cover. after the d-a sander get ready for sore fingers from hand sanding. the post from martin sr is excellant. remember 95% of a good paint job is the prep work, so if you want it to look good and last, be patient and methodical. sand EVERY nook and cranny and every glossy spot (if the paint can't dig in and bond---it won't. remember clean, clean, CLEAN! i use cheap thinner to remove oil (even from your fingers) and dust. tack reg unil you don't get any residue---then do it again. paint work is not easy, and i respect the guys who do it for a living, and a good painter is an artist for sure.

post yer progress, keep us advised, alot of us are interested. happy trails cool

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 19
J
New Guy
New Guy
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 19
Baldeagle and Jimfred,
I had read Martinsr's great post and learned a lot, but was concerned over compatability between the chemicals used by Redi-strip and those in the primer and paint. I've left a message with someone from Dupont to find out about their products being applied after Redi-strip.

Koolcar,
For just the stripped body without any doors, fenders, trim , running boards,hood, etc, it's running about $1150.00. I hope to get it back soon and Ill let you know how it turned out.

48 Burb
55 1st 1/2 ton
not enough time and way too much to do but I do have tomatoes growing on the vine!


JohnRJoyner
48 Suburban,55 1st 1/2 ton, 53 GMC

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