The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1941 216 Engine

I bought this 1/2 ton a short while ago. It still had original wiring and I replaced nearly everything with a new harness from Rhode Island Electric. Some of the wires from the coil(I think it's the original) were real bad and I replaced as much as I could access easily.

Along every step I started the truck to be certain every thing was ok. The engine had new spark plug wires, points, cap, rotor and condenser that had just been replaced by the prior owner.

The truck started and ran great, with a nice smooth idle.

Yesterday I started it to make its maiden voyage. It started, but ran rough. It would not idle. I was able to restart a couple of times. Then it would not start. The garage was full of smoke. The plugs had extreme carbon residue. I had checked the plugs the previous day after running it and they looked great.

I would appreciate any insight as to what the problem might be.

Thanks
Ed

I have had the float stick to the bottom of the float bowl, and cause similar issues, although I had gas just pouring out of the carb as well. I had the truck run like crap for a couple of months, I changed every thing at one time or another, points, condenser, wires, plugs, put pertronix in, took it back out, changed carburetors, (2 different carburetors). gas tank, fuel lines, filters, you name it. then one day it started running fine, like it had for 25 years, and still runs like that today. Still no idea...

Thanks for the response. I made a small adjustment to the points today. The truck fired right up, ran smooth with no missing or smoke while I had the throttle out to achieve higher rpm. Just as I was going to push the throttle back in, the engine died as though I had shut the ignition off.

Tomorrow I'm going to set up a remote coil to see if that's the problem.

If you're still using the electrolock (armored cable between the switch & coil) you may be arching inside the cable. As you are well aware the old cloth insulation doesn't age well and it's used for that wire. Your mention of messing with the coil wiring raises a red flag. It's possible to replace that wire. The Filling Station has a repair guide for the 37-40 electrolock that may still be useful in your application. To the best of my knowledge the main difference between years is how it connects to the coil, the basic structure is the same.

Thanks for the information. I ordered the repair guide yesterday.

Is there any reason that I couldn't just replace the metal sheathed cable with standard primary wire and the use of a two position toggle switch and retain the stomper starter arrangement?

Thanks
Ed

A lot of people have done that. Being an OEM guy myself the main drawback is losing the original look because you'll need to cut the armored cable off at the back of the switch or use a non OEM switch. Electrolock coils are getting scarce and expensive when you do find them so the easy way out is to do away with the electrolock.

As luck would have it, the repair manual is backordered and won't be available for at least 3 weeks.

I really would like to get rid of the electrolock cable, but being new to this I am leery about cutting the cable at the switch. Could you elaborate further on the procedure as to where to cut and what I will need to do after the cut is made.

Thanks
Ed

No one repops electrolocks so every one destroyed is lost forever. IMHO a better procedure would be to use an aftermarket ignition switch and run a wire from it to the coil. A restorer may be searching for your electrolock or you (or future owner) may decide to return to stock someday. That task would be easier with a functioning electrolock. BTW I suspect your manual will arrive sooner than you expect.

You hit the nail right on the head. Manual is being shipped.

I have decided to go the aftermarket switch route.

Thank you.