The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Paint help ?

need help guys. i have a 52 chevy 1 ton truck. my friend epoxy primed the cab. i went over it put some filler and etching primer on bare metal spots. my question is can i prime just the spots i went over with rattle can instead of getting out the spray gun. here r a few pics of what i am doing and the primer spray paint. any help will be appreciated. cab paint cab paint

jimbo24,

Wait to hear from a more knowledgeable poster, but my cautious answer it to prime it again with an epoxy primer (or other two-part primer/sealer).

" . . . i went over it put some filler and etching primer on bare metal spots."

Self-etching primer does not usually seal the metal. What brand/product did you use?

Mix a a small amount of epoxy and brush it on. 2 coats minimum.

But I'd remove the etching primer first. They do not play well under epoxy because the acid (the etch) in etching primers hinders the cure of the epoxy resins. Bad juju.
Idealy you have two or three coats of epoxy primer over any bare metal then your filler and high build coats if used with a reduced epoxy sealer coat on top just prior to paint.
Filler, poly primers/high build and the like absorb moisture and do not seal out water.
Epoxy primers do not absorb moisture and Do seal out water.

ok thanks guys. i guess i will sand the etching primer off and put some epoxy primer back on

I used this process..

-Bare metal
-Rust repair/metal work
-DP Epoxy primer
-All body work
-Evercoat Slick Sand ( cheaper than K38. A sprayable body filler almost)
-Block with 80 touch up body work
-PPG K38 Block with 220 dry fill minor imperfections
-PPG K38 Block with 320 wet
-Wet sand with 500
-DP Epoxy reduced with DT870
-PPG DBC base coat
-PPG 2002 clear with DFX11 hardner and reduced with DT 885

See the photo's in the links below.

Jimbo, I'm no professional, and this is my first truck restoration/modification... so take this as just someone else sharing their personal technique.

1) strip areas that need metal work, do the metal work, strip the rest of the truck
2) use an epoxy primer (i used the Summit Racing EP (covered well and sanded decently with 220 then 400)
3) any filler work needed
4) reshoot primer over the filler, wait the recommended recoat time, shoot over the filler areas again (since it absorbs into the filler), wait, shoot over the entire cab
5) sand to 600 to remove any imperfections
6) seal (i'll be using reduced epoxy)
7) paint

my truck looks a lot like yours with filler in several different places

wow randy that looks great
also thanks gm jager

You can sand to 400 and be done. My PPG supplier showed me two panels, one wet sanded to 600, then PPG epoxy sealer. The other one was dry sanded to 400 using the same sealer. Both were painted Sunburst Yellow. There was zero difference. The sealer is rated to seal 400 grit scratches. All of the paint I have put on so far has come out perfect doing that. I am not a real enthusiastic sander. I have prepped the entire truck with 80 grit first, then 220, then 400 inside and out all by hand. I am no expert either, I just rely on them.