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I'm wiring in a new harness. Truck is converted to 12v and no longer has points. Running a 1-wire GM alternator. Do I still need a ballast resistor or can I now do without it? Thanks,
Jonny

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If you are running electronic dizzy, no you do not need the ballast resistor. root

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Originally Posted by root
If you are running electronic dizzy, no you do not need the ballast resistor. root

No, I am not running an electronic distributor... So does that mean I do need it?


1950 Chevy 3600 w/ 54 235 motor
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Originally Posted by dx3
Truck is converted to 12v and no longer has points.

If it's not running points, what sort of ignition system does it have?
Jerry


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Root and Jerry are asking if you have HEI or Pertronix, for example.
If you don't have any of that, you must have a magneto!
Otherwise this whole thing is "pointless" yahoo


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BOOOOOOO!!!!!!
Bad bartamos!

Last edited by 52Carl; 07/23/2015 3:08 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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There are times when I think I'm funny and other people do not. It's the life of a star. yahoo shake wave chug


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Some electronic conversions use a ballast resistor. A Pertronics distributor is direct 12 volts. However some Pertronics conversions use a resistor. I have a Mallory conversion in my 57 that uses a ballast resistor. You need to determine what type of "no points" conversion you have and go from there.
Fred


1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
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Excuse my ignorance on all of this. I'm still learning. Here is a picture of what I have

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/...E-4018-883C-D8E2B210F3AE_zps12nua0sp.jpg


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looks like a standard point distributor as much as one can see of it.
And it looks like a ballast on the fire wall.


Can you provide the blue coil part number and model or look to see if it identifies requirement for external resistor/ballast.
A ballast resistor was added to allow boost to voltage on start up, the coils were basically 6 or 9 volt coils and needed a drop during normal running and would get the full voltage with key in start position.

A true 12V coil does not use a ballast, but 12V systems can be either way so it is what coil type is used. If you use a ballast on a 12V coil you will have a weak spark, using a ballast coil with out a ballast will provide a hot spark but coil and point will likely burn out rapid.

Again what is marked on the coil?



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Bartmos, I think your funny, but more importantly, you give good advice. Keep up the good work!


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Yea the funny stuff come with old age, the older the more the mind wanders.


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Looks like the resistor (ballast) is disconnected. Do you have a 6V or 12V coil? Is it internal or external resisted?
I don't see any power to the coil?
Here are some issues you need to read up on:
Basic car wiring
Basic truck electrical circuitry, including ignition
12V conversion

We all have to study a problem like this all the time. This is no disrespect to you. But you may be heading into a task without trying to study first. True we can help but it will be confusing getting bits a pieces from those who can't see or tell what you have and you may not know what they are saying. Sort out what way you want to design your 12V conversion regarding ignition/starter/electrical generation as a separate issue from general lighting and the rest of the harness.

Thank you Beltfed for the comment.


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Upon looking at the coil my question was answered. It states a resistor is required. I guess I should do better with my reading. Thanks guys,


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It does look like a stock distributor and it is determined that the coil is designed to use a ballast resistor. However, does it use points or is a conversion? Remove the cap and determine which it is. I also don't see complete wiring to the coil for it to run.
Fred


1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
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Gentlemen,

Thank you for the responses. It is only partially hooked up because one of the spades was broken so the wire fell out... I'll get the requested information when I get home tonight. Thanks!


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There is another post from poster re: this issue and should be combined somehow. see "new wiring questions"


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn

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