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#1113689 07/14/2015 4:47 PM
Joined: Dec 2014
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'Bolter
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I received my truck in January from my dad and looking from the rear the cab or the bed is crooked. after investigating, it is the cab that is off by like an inch or so but looks dramatic from the rear.

any suggestions?


Loving my new (old) '53 3100 5 window!
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'Bolter
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If it's the cab I would check the rear shackle mounts on each side that attach the cab to the frame. They could be broken or the rubber bushings could just be gone depending on how bad it is.

If it is the bed I would check the wood blocks between the frame and the bed

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'Bolter
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no bed is good and level, it is definitely the cab. are the shackles easy to get to?


Loving my new (old) '53 3100 5 window!
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Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
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comfort,
Just crawl under the rear of the cab and look along the outside of the frame rails (just behind running boards) you should see one on each side. If i remember correctly, i think it has 2 or 3 bolts holding it to the frame. sorry, i don't have a picture since the truck is at the shop for paint.

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'Bolter
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Here is a picture of the shackle assembly. Two bolts to the frame (note any shim placement) and two bolts to lock plates behind the seat (they thread In from underneath).You need to use a penetrant oil on them as they get gummed up over the years and will snap.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129483565/in/album-72157631868452754/
They will need new rubber most likely but you may find it is collapsed because your front mount is bad. Look at where the pedal shafts come though the floor if the holes are egg-shaped or rubbing you have a bad front mount. This is very common on AD's as the floor gets all the mud and snow over the years (usually on the DS).
Here is an illustration of how the system works, the cab is mounted at four points and when the front sheet metal and radiator supports are correctly installed they function as the fifth.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/11974011174/in/album-72157639819091033/

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ok, wow, thanks for all the info bud. that is a great help!


Loving my new (old) '53 3100 5 window!
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Wrench Fetcher
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Brad, my front cab mounts are completely shot, rusted gone along with the floor pans up to the seat riser.The rear is ok. Im going to order both right and left pans and support channels for the front. my question is whats the best way to install? and how do you get correct location of hole frame to cab if everything is gone? do you put floor pan in first then support? or other way around

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'Bolter
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You just confirmed what I know to be true, crooked or leaning cabs are rarely rear mount problems. Here is a link to how I fixed mine, just follow the pictures.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129129278/in/album-72157631867396207/
Most of us that go into serious cab surgery replace the following:
One or both floor sections usually above and below the bend line.
Inner and outer lower cowls with center section.
One or both front cab mounts (formed sheet metal channels see pic).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129107861/
Re-bush and refurbish rear shackles.
All of these sections require pretty good welding and fitting skills or the willingness to learn. Parts are available from several vendors, none are perfect, most work. I will add that I replaced one complete side before removing anything from the other side. My cab came out really well doing this, others cut and brace. I don't like welding all that additional support in (with subsequent clean-up) if not needed, that is a decision you will have to weigh.

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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks for the photos. So I take it do all this while cab is still on frame I guess to keep from distortion before lifting off frame.so did you weld front mount brackets to bottom of floor pans or do they come with the complete floor pan. I have the willingness. Not to much in mig welding. I just bought a Lincoln 180 machine now I have to learn a bit before starting. I have done heavy stick welding no mig.

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'Bolter
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Yes on the frame. In my pictures when you see me working one side, the other was bolted down and both shackle mounts were in place on the rear. Those brackets do not come with the floor panels, they are separate items. This process worked well for me, before I removed the body from the frame the floors, cowls, and door fit was all complete. The rear corners I did off the frame, you need to for access and they don't affect the structure.

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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks, I will use your photos extensively. I had no Idea where to start because the front mount brackets are just about all gone, so are the thin strips that run fore & aft of the transmission cover. Ill send you some of my photos when I get hooked up to flicker or photo bucket.....thanks again Brad I may have to ask a few more questions as we get going here. the first thing I need to do is unpack my new welder and start practicing.

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'Bolter
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No problem, when you start practicing (go to the local metal supply and buy rems). Practice buttons, just a quick start/stop. Most make the mistake of trying to weld these panels continuously, they won't take it. But if you make a button and then weld between them and skip around you will not melt through as easy and you can control the warpage. Practice will make perfect. As I said in my earlier post these panels don't just drop right in they will need some careful fitting and the occasional filler piece. You can do it, measure twice and cut once.

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Ok Brad thanks so much, I hope you dont mind but Im going to have a lot of questions on this....i want to do it right since im going to be spending thousands of dollars on this truck. Is it ok if I PM you with my photos and questions? that way i wont eat up space here on the site. Your floor pans were in good shape compared to mine. so since the square channel mounts are gone I take it those are the first thing i start with since I can bolt them to the frame and work out from there?. and I understand your reason for starting with one side at a time.

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'Bolter
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Yes you are correct in your approach as my photos indicate, I cut my way in and welded my way out. Please PM with questions I am happy to help.

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'Bolter
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Brad and Subvet,
Please continue the conversation here, this thread has helped me relax a bit. I just bought a 1950 3100 that is in very good condition on the outside but has issues very similar to each of your trucks. Seems every time I remove a part I find something new that needs repair. This feels kind of overwhelming to someone new to this adventure!
The photos and comments are going to be a great guide for me to follow.....

Thank you,
Jackie


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Wrench Fetcher
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Jackie as soon as I figure out how to post photos I will show you where we are at. I just purchased floor pans and support brackets. We are getting ready to cutbout the rust and weld in new supports and sheet metal. Just not sure which piece to start with first. There is not much left of either front mounts so when I cut them loose not sure where im going to end up as far as alignment.


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