The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Opinions Please

Still in the beginning stages of getting this engine running, and I decided to give it a bit of a cleaning today. I soaked it down with degreaser and when I hosed it off I found an old weld running the length of the block.

Other than possibly leaking oil or coolant if the weld is not sound, is there anything else I should know/worry about? Should I just pull this lump and make a coffee table out of it?

It appears to be a (yellow?) 59-62 261 out of a Canadian Pontiac car, has a carb from a 235 and bypass oil filtration.

I kind of like it because although it's not original, it's the way this truck was when I was a kid, so if it's no big deal with the weld I'll keep working to get it going. If it's going to be a big waste of time, I'd like to hear that opinion too.

Down the road, maybe in a few years, I'd like to get a bit more power out of it with an intake and headers, but mostly I'm looking for something that's reliable that I can drive to the lumber yard, the dump, and stuff like that.

My phone had a hard time focusing on the weld, but here are a couple of the better shots:
https://flic.kr/p/weLcMg
https://flic.kr/p/vX9vPG

Thanks,
Grandpa's Dump Truck

That is one ugly weld. Personally I wouldn't trust it. That being said, do you know if the motor ran after the weld and for how long. If it has lasted many years then it will probably last many more.

Bit ugly, but location of the crack and the weld are the key to why it was still running after repair.
As you state water or oil leaks if the weld has porous spots would or should be the concern.

Not a beauty queen, but it don't hurt the running of it none?

I guess that's my main concern - would a crack in that location affect the alignment of anything internally and cause undue stress or premature wear? I suppose if it did it would only be out a few thou anyways...

If I had to guess, I'd say that weld is 20 or more years old, and I know the last time the truck was used was about 7 years ago so although it may leak, the truck does run. (Should run - once I figure out the lower rad hose issue.)

The internal cylinder walls are for most part isolated from the outside walls of the block.
I was trying to find a photo of the casting webs that shows the inside look of the block.
You have cylinder walls then a web that ties them to the outside with in between the water jacket.
From as best as I see in the picture the crack is outside and only looks to be outer wall and below the cylinder section.
In addition it is not on the side of the cam shaft is located so no issues there.
These factors minimize the impact to any moving parts and should only have concern with water or maybe oil channels.

Looks like a lead patch not a weld. It appears to be in the water jacket only. You do have options if you want to keep the engine. Pull up my photo of my crack repair on my 216. Not saying this is the way you should go, but it worked great for me. Good luck!!

53 green 1- ton: That Loc-n-Stitch system is pretty slick.

I guess I'll leave it alone for now and once the engine is running and has some pressure I'll see if it leaks or not.

Even if it seeps a little, I would just add Barsleak to the cooling system and drive it for another 50,000 to 60,000 miles. With only 4# of pressure on the cooling system, you will be fine.
Carl

Unless it's pouring coolant, don't sweat it. That weld is at the bottom of the water jacket, a common place to get a crack from not running enough (or any) antifreeze. Somebody has done a pretty good job of welding- - - -"pretty" doesn't count, it's whether or not it leaks that matters. Leave it alone until you have a reason to tear it down to a bare block, then do a little grinding to improve the looks and add a layer of Marine-Tex if you're worried about the possibility of a leak. While the patch is curing, press a piece of 40 grit sandpaper over the repair to match the surface roughness of the surrounding cast iron. After a paint job, the repair will never show.
Jerry

Darn it, Jerry

Now you are causing me to take to NC the 1954 235 that has a long crack in that location. That engine is from a Hydra-Matic 3100 and "numbers matching" make a difference (I have the Hydra-Matic transmission).

I wanted a spare matching engine/transmission (for the H-M pickup we are "restoring") but was disappointed when I saw that long crack in the lower left-side block.

Thanks,

Thanks everyone. Glad to know that's not a critical spot for a crack, and appreciate all the info.

My plan is to get it running, then driving, then I'll worry about making it pretty. Just don't want to be wasting time on something that might be a catastrophe down the line...