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| | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 578 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 578 | I'm a couple of years away from retirement; therefore I'm a couple of years away from having time to really invest in the truck. I've got a couple of holes in the fenders that I'd like to make more presentable for the time being. If I fiberglas over them, do I have to take the surrounding area down to bare metal before I apply the 'glas? Can I 'glas over primer? Any prep hints out there?
Thanks!
"Happiness equals reality minus expectations" - Tom Magliozzi
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 553 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 553 | It's best to glass over clean, virgin, roughed up bare metal. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | I would rough it up good with 40 grit inside and out to give the resin a chance to stick. It will stick. I glassed a big hole in a Jeep body that held up fine.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 48 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 48 | I glassed over a bunch of holes in the floor boards of my '47 1-ton. Instead of resin I used POR-15 putty. It is a rust inhibitor, but what I like is that it remains more flexible than resin. In my truck the suspension seems to be mostly in the seats, so some give in the glass is beneficial. Just brushed it on to saturate the glass cloth like you do with resin. The POR people actually recommend this use for the putty, which is basically really thick paint. You need more coats to reach a smooth finish than with resin, but the end result looks good and has lasted through a lot of pot holes that had me smacking my head on the roof.
Good luck, Dave
Don't read the directions, that'd be too easy.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 48 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 48 | By the way, I did wire brush it down to bare metal.
Dave
Don't read the directions, that'd be too easy.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 578 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 578 | So, Dave, see if I understand. Sand and brush to bare metal. Put on the Por15 putty. Lay the cloth into it. Brush more putty into the cloth. Do I let it dry and ad further coats? Sounds like a winner, I swear by their paint.
"Happiness equals reality minus expectations" - Tom Magliozzi
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 48 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 48 | Yep. Except I used a wire brush on a grinder to bring it down to bare metal. Otherwise that is the sequence. You have to let each coat dry for 24 hrs I think. The only draw-back is you may need to put down many coats before the cloth print disappears. I also sanded between coats to work out the high spots.
Good luck,
Dave
Don't read the directions, that'd be too easy.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | If you are going to paint over it, don't use the POR putty. It's too flexible and will crack out.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
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