The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop frt mtr mounts and oil pan gasket

The front plate is wallowed out where the carriage bolts came thru. I made a
plate out of 1"x1/8 flat stock since there are large holes in the plate and
I'm not sure that just washers would hold well.. I don't have access to a
welder and am trying to think of a way to keep the head of the bolts from
turning after I reinstall the balancer. I could put a lock washer under the
head of the bolt, or try to stake them in place. I'm more concerned about
down the road, when the new rubber compresses and I need to tighten the
bolts. I don't want to pull the balancer just to tighten the motor mounts.
It appears that the front motor mount has a top metal piece, a bottom metal
piece that holds the rubber mount the vendors sell. The top piece is very
worn where the bolts came thru, and the old mount had a metal piece that the
bolts came thu with a rectangular shape probably built into the rubber. The
new rubber is just rubber. I'm considering putting a couple of large washers
over the round rubber areas that protrude thru the top plate. This may raise
the height of the motor and the manual says don't shim!?. What to do??
I've glued the oil pan gasket to the pan, and am going to install tonight.
The sides of the pan should not be a problem, but the rounded ends concern
me. Do I need to use any additional sealer at the ends, or leave the cork
gasket dry? I know there might be different opinions, but I sure don't want
to have to pull the pan off twice.
Dave

As to the front mount there should also be a sheet metal pan/cup which fits over the assembly as an oil deflector. I would think that if the square holes are gone I would try to find another metal assembly. Try Carters or some such place. Most likely would be used. When I assembled the mount I also put gasket goo around the holes in the oil shield in case oil leaked down from the timing cover. This helps keep the oil out which will find its way via a bolt.

Put the bolts in with some JB Weld under the heads. Not too much, you don't want it squeezing out all over the place.

If working space permits, leave bolt long enough to file the threaded end square after the nut, washers and all are in place. Then, you can hold the bolt with a crescent wrench or vise-grips from the bottom.

Truck Tinker

I had a welder come by yesterday. He tacked the bolt heads to the plate I had made and then welded that plate to the front plate of the motor. Hopefully it will last for a few more years now. I appreciate all the suggestions.
Dave