I have a 1953 Chevy 3100 with a 1958 Chevy 235 mated to an SM420 4 speed and I am wondering what a normal top speed would be for such a set-up. The problem is, it seems like the whole thing is gonna blow if I get up to a whopping 45 MPH. In the far off past, we have used this truck for long cross state drives and none of us remember it being that slow. Any thoughts? It seems like it should be able to at least hit 60.
Not to ambush your thread but I am curious what RPM these would be running at during top speed? I have been debating changing my rear end gearing while I have it apart to help keep the RPM down at higher speeds.
This video is getting kind of old, and it's not that good but it does give you an idea of how a stock 216 runs at 50-65 mph. I would run it all day at 55 and do run 65 at times, which is about 2900 rpm, when I use the tollway. I would't run a 216 at speed for a long haul but that wouldn't hurt a late model 235 in good health:
Don't know Fred, that's not there when your riding in the cab. The camera is mounted solid to the seat back, must be picking up all the springs creaking or something. Told you it had lousy sound, what do you expect from a 10 year old camera meant to take still pictures. They've come a lone way in 10 years.
Yeah, you guys must be talking about after upgrades. My truck felt like it was going to explode if I pushed to 50. Stock 1950. I would NEVER take it over 50.. You guys have more guts than I do. Thus why I am building another one with OD, 261, and 3.90 rear end. Even then I am thinking a max of 75 or so.
Still not sure what to think. Maybe i can attach the tach meter in such a way that I can get some idea of what RPM it is running.
If the memories are correct and it used to go a lot faster, the only thing I can think of is that the clutch is slipping. I may have to go test that theory as well. I was reading about how oil can get on the clutch plate and the thing certainly has been leaking a bit
If your clutch were slipping you would know it when you take off from a standstill, or smell it or it would be chattering when you slip it.
We get so used to hearing our modern engines running at 1800 rpm at highway speeds in our sound proof cocoons that a stovebolt at 3000 rpm sounds like its gonna fly apart. As I said, it won't, if it's a healthy engine and not all worn out. Remember to, that brand new these only were putting out a hundred or less HP. Even the modern four cylinder engines are pumping out a couple hundred horses and the body's are much more aerodynamic than a barn door, which is what your old truck is second cousin to. dg
Denny, I thought the video was really great. I turned up the base and I could hear the rumble of the exhaust, just like I was there. You do really nice work on your videos and photos.
Slim Dusty, I envy you guys with the 3.90 or 3.55 gears. Without changing out my entire rear axle, I'm limited to go no higher than the 4.10 in my Eaton HO52 axle. Supposedly many, many years back there was a higher gear set produced for that center section but I've yet to see one. JC used to have it posted in his tech articles, that there is a 3.90 ring and pinion made for the 3/4-ton Eaton, but it appears that they finally edited that out.
Now Fred, that's not true, but thanks anyway. That was my second attempt at using that old Kodak Easy Share as a video camera. I really want a GoPro but simply can't afford it right now.
Gus is the one that got me to thinking about using video to describe a procedure or situation. Now he's the one who is producing some really good stills and video, I take my lessons from his work.
Sound seems to be the major stumbling block in all of the video recording that I've seen. The do make a remote mic if you have a GoPro, I would think that would make a world of difference in the sound recording.
So many things to try and so little time and money for it all!
When you stray from the AD's I have to yield to guys like Dave or Jerry who've been all around. I don't have anything to compare to so it would be simply guess work or something that anyone could look up on the net. dg
Harold, I,ll take a stab at it.. Yes it will bolt in, BUT You would need to adapt a bracket to it for the clutch pedal. see Marvin Ribbich,s prior Excellent post on how to do it with NO Welding. "tired of double clutching" Here,s His# 1-262-392-2989 regards, steve sr.
Last edited by steve sr; 06/21/20154:47 PM. Reason: add #
When I first started driving my truck ('53 with '49 216 and three speed), I wouldn't go any faster than 45 mph because I thought it was going to fly apart. Then one day I was forced to pass someone that was going even slower than me, and I found that when you exceed 45mph and get up to 55 it smoothes right out.
Try using a gps to establish your actuall speed. Depending on your tire size, you might be going faster than you think (or slower).
Turn it down a bit,
When I first started driving my truck it was deafening. I wore ear plugs. But people would always tell me my truck was so quiet. That's when I realized the cab was picking up all the engine noise and amplifying it.
Change out your cab mount rubber pads and the rubber motor mount parts. Do what you can to prevent the engine vibrations from transfering to the cab. Also insulate the cab and fix leaky exhaust to prevent engine noise from radiating into the cab metal.
If you "turn the volume down" you'll get a better idea how she's running.
3.55 gears from Patrick's are great. I re commend them. I also recommend better brakes,, whether it's a dual cylinder master or disks. Stopping is more important.
I enjoy cruising at 55 with little noise and control
Dennis -there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
So, it has taken awhile for me to put a tach on this truck. Assuming it was working right, the truck is turning about 2500 rpm at 40 MPH and sounds and feels like it is pushing the outer limits at that point. Things just don't add up. The engine is rated for max hp at 4200 rpm! It is entirely possible that everything is a bit off. I adjusted the valves a little while ago and now I am second guessing whether i did that properly too.
As for the clutch slipping, it does not seem to be slipping in an obvious manner but it does shudder a little bit when letting the clutch out in second.
It would shudder when accelerating hard. However I did not drive it much until after the clutch was repaired.
However my perception was that if I did not feel the clutch slipping I did not feel a loss in speed.
So I can not say how much a bad clutch is affecting your top speed. But I do not think it is effecting your top speed that much.
You said the original wheels were found. Do you know if the tires on the truck now have a correct diameter. Smaller replacement tire will lower your top speed and throw off your speedometer.
A tired old engine with even low compression will run smooth though will not have the power it once had.
Through the years was the wrong carb put on or smaller jets installed.
Verify your speedometer with a GPS.
Find out what your rear end ratio is. It could of been changed.
Update: I seem to have stumbled onto a solution to my trucks perceived reluctance to go over 40 mph. I have done the timing and adjusted the valves to solid lifter specs. At some point lately I realized that the truck most likely has hydraulic lifters instead of solid ones. Well, to make a long story short, it does indeed have hydraulic lifters and now I have readjusted the valves accordingly.
This change made all the difference in the world! I actually saw 50mph today on a short test drive and now I have more worry over the truck careening off the road due to suspension and steering inadequacies or brake failure than I do about any engine issues. It is so smooth and quiet it actually seems like a new or different truck. Needless to say, this makes me very happy.
When I originally adjusted the valves, the clearances were mostly too big for the regular lifter type engine, so I tightened them down a bit to supposedly get them in specs. It makes me think that either my grandpa adjusted the valves a long time ago while assuming it had the solid lifters or, he had someone else do it who assumed that my '53 PU actually had the '53 motor in it rather than the car-sourced '58 that it does have.
Anyway, great learning experience. And a happy ending too, so far.
Now, just have to get the brakes up to snuff, replace the shocks and tires and rebuild the front end and it should be good as new!
I know this thread is a few months old but my friends 55 1st series came with the same 235 / 4 spd and 4.10 rear. His engine would also be pretty wound out at 50-55 MPH. He had the rear gears replaced with 3.38 gears (or close to that) and now he can keep up with the rest of us on car cruise days. How do you think I feel with a 235 / 4 spd. and 5.38 gears in my 4400. My top speed is 48 MPH. 50 with a good tail wind. Gonna be changing that in the near future.
