The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop MARTINSR, question about sealer

I was just about ready to paint my cab, and I decided to shoot it with sealer first because there was a couple spots that had filler showing and different colored primers. I didn't want it to be a different texture, etc. I used Pacific Coast Laquer's (PCL) Euroseal (2k, nonsanding primer sealer part#701). On the can, it said to use the catalyst along with either acetone or reducer. A couple paint stores recommended acetone with this product. As I was spraying it, it went on extremely dry, with a rough texture, and it left realy small pinholes in some areas. As soon as I started spraying it left dust on the rest of the cab.

I found out that I shouldn't have used PPG's DX330 (wax/grease road/tar remover) on the primer (it feels sorta greasy) to clean it, and that I shouldn't have rubbed hard with a tack rag (just lightly drag across). I think the pinholes were caused by the above two because it didn't happen in areas I didn't clean really well.

I've now sanded everything with 500 grit to get it smooth again. I'd like to use another product, possibly PPG's epoxy primer sealer (Is it DP 40?). Do you know if this will work over PCL's sealer? I'm not sure if its laquer based (I wouldn't think so). I'd like to get something I don't have to sand and I'd like to spray the paint within a few hours after the sealer. My paint is DuPont Imron single stage 5.0voc metallic w/ 500S clearcoat.

kevmor, you are on the right track. In fact, the reasons you are using the sealer is the very reasons you should, good job. Now, the DP40 will probably work fine. The acetone is being used in many products because of VOC issues. It is very low in VOC because it is VERY heavy. Being that it is heavy, it flashes like crap and can lead to trouble.
I am not certain but if that PPG 330 "felt greasy" it is probably high in mineral spirits and not a good choice for your final clean. It flashes way too slow and the primer sucked it up.
But with all that, I dont think it had anything to do with your dusty spraying problem. That is most likly to little reduction and then too high of air pressure to try to get the stuff out of the gun. That is just a hunch, but I think it is something like that.

And, by the way, you have a real laundry list of brands. Stick to one and you will be a lot better off.

Martin is right on, as usual. he is knowledgable in this area.I listen to him alot. Sometimes the primers and sealers I have used and they have been different brands dont always lend to every setup and painting situation. I alway test before shooting on the piece I am ready to paint.The dry dust overspray you are getting is just that, even though you mixed what the manufacture recommended,
it is coming out of your gun too heavy and way to dry. I have found and it seems funny but it is like baking in an oven altitude changes properties
and humidity can play havoc with you also.My garage walls and test metals are varios colors cause I do test before applying. Hope this helps some and Martin if you disagree let him know.hope this helps, what works for one doesnt work for another. good luck to you

Alan