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| | | Forums66 Topics128,037 Posts1,055,580 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 | The assembly manual, sheet 9/2.00 shows the various parts of the steering assembly, including horn parts. But I don't see where the horn wire attaches, and no obvious place on the parts themselves. Help? thanks
A VW guy trying his hand at a '59 LB fs. Lots to learn, but it's about the journey.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 219 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 219 | Did you remove your old harness? If not there should be a wire hanging down from the light harness coming in from Driver side firewall. It should go to the horn relay from there. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 | Old harness is gone (all chewed up) and a new harness installed. The wires are in place on the relay on the firewall, but as part of the new harness - under the dash - I have a brown wire with a spade connector designated for the horn connection. Just don't see anything in the steering wheel assembly to take that connector.
A VW guy trying his hand at a '59 LB fs. Lots to learn, but it's about the journey.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 219 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 219 | In that case the horn wire should be coming down out of the column. If it is not there you need to pull the steering wheel to re-wire or repair it. There is a round connector the horn assembly makes contact with and a wire attached. Relatively easy operation, just take lots of pictures. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 | Sorry, I've been unclear. I'm at reassembly and have no pics of the original condition. This truck was half-apart when I got it, incl. most of the wiring snipped and/or ripped out. So I've got the harness's "Horn Button" wire coming up into the steering column, and all the new parts of the horn assembly, but don't see a point on the assembly where a spade connector would attach.
Is that attachment point on the metal ring attached to the bottom of the steering wheel? There's what looks like the stub that could be an attachment point, so maybe mine is too far gone.
A VW guy trying his hand at a '59 LB fs. Lots to learn, but it's about the journey.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 219 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 219 | This is what needs to get wired: Upper Steering Column Mast Bearing GM part # 5672192 if you check on eBay there are pictures of what the assembly should look like. That bearing sits inside the column. The horn contact goes through the steering wheel, the contact ring sits in the steering wheel. Check the page 83 of LMC catalog so you get an idea of what order it all goes in. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=83 | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,094 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,094 | The mast bearing has a wire on it that get fed down the steering column, it comes ou the column and connects to the brown wire.
Tommy 59 apache 1/2t 261 short stepside | | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 | I apologize for my density here and appreciate your patience. This is bizarre. When I did my disassembly the wires had been cut, but I carefully saved ALL parts and have no mast bearing...unless (!) it's inside the column, which I did not disassemble. I removed the steering wheel and turn signal switch housing (#5 in the LMC diagram), unbolted the steering box from the frame, and then removed the whole column assembly down through the firewall. Here are two pics of what I've got now. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d...20Pickup/20150520_063748_zpsy3spkiyv.jpgThat slot in the column housing sure looks like it should have a wire going through it. eh? http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d...20Pickup/20150520_063823_zpsllswkgtr.jpgSo is there a mast bearing down inside there? If so, do I have to take the column out and take it apart to get to that bugger? Note: the spring-loaded bushing (#14 in the LMC diagram) makes contact with the top surface of the steering column "sleeve" so it seems like that should be the electrical conduit. eh?
A VW guy trying his hand at a '59 LB fs. Lots to learn, but it's about the journey.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 899 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 899 | On the LMC picture part number 11 is what you need. It's positioned at the top of the steering column. It keeps the steering shaft centered in the column. The wire off of it goes down through the column and out towards the bottom to hook to your horn rely ground wire. Here's another picture of it. http://www.americanclassic.com/images/EL109.JPG
Brian 1955.2 3100 Truck The older I get the more dangerous I am!!!!! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 | OK, the picture is clearer. Except after reading that description of removal, including pullers and "special driver" for installation I'm wondering if I need to go through all that. IF the bearing is good, and IF it's only the point of attachment for a ground wire that completes the horn circuit, can I attach that brown wire by soldering it to any convenient point on the column? I could fish it up through the column and solder it near the top on the inside surface. Or is the shaft bearing isolated from the column?
A VW guy trying his hand at a '59 LB fs. Lots to learn, but it's about the journey.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 219 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 219 | I carefully eased mine out with a thin screw driver and carefully tapped it back in with a mallet and large socket. I don't think soldering to the column would help since the outside of the bass is insulated. If you do solder it would have to be to the outer top ring. Nice clean truck by the way.
Edit... I worked my way around the top lip (between the column and the bearing) with the screw driver. If you use the puller it may destroy the lip as it "bites" into it. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,094 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,094 | You can get it out with a screwdriver. Install with a deep socket and a hammer. The wire is long enough to feed it down and out of the column.
Tommy 59 apache 1/2t 261 short stepside | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,094 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,094 | you have the bearing in the column.
Tommy 59 apache 1/2t 261 short stepside | | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 | OK, I discovered that someone wrapped the column in electrical tape that had long since turned to crud. I got that off/out and pulled the spring. I've been working over an hour on the bearing. I can get it up far enough that all the ball bearings are out but it will NOT come up past a certain point (the top of the race about even with the opening). If I let it fall back down into the recess it will even rotate around the shaft, but work it back up and...stuck solid at that point.
WD-40, Blaster....nothing seems to help. Am I missing something? Is there a release or other mechanical stop keeping that thing from coming all the way out?
That bearing was shot and needed replacement. That's obvious now. But before I can put a new one in I've got to get this one out!
A VW guy trying his hand at a '59 LB fs. Lots to learn, but it's about the journey.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 34 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 34 | Just keep working with the screw driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. Look at the new one and you will see what needs to come out. I finally got mine out. Good luck.
1952 Chevy 3100
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 | Well this is embarrassing. dg1952's comment sent me over to the Classic site to look at their (better) pic of the mast bearing. Doh! I was trying to get the bearing only out, not the larger cup in which it sits. Once I realized my mistake it took all of two minutes to get it out. It fits flush enough that I didn't notice the difference between the top lip of the mast bearing and the top of the steering column. Oh, and there's the stub of a wire attached. Imagine that.
OK, I'm going to go sit on a stool in the corner now, wearing that pointy hat.
A VW guy trying his hand at a '59 LB fs. Lots to learn, but it's about the journey.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | No pointy hat required. You fixed it so a pat on the back and a drink of choice. Quiet celebration is in order.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 219 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 219 | Nice work! Doing it the first time is always the hardest and most nerve wracking. Now you can repair or replace it and finish your wiring. It's all learning with these old trucks and all the more rewarding when it is fixed. I agree with Steve a celebratory drink should be in order! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 319 | thanks, gentlemen. And I believe I'll take you up on that suggestion.
A VW guy trying his hand at a '59 LB fs. Lots to learn, but it's about the journey.
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