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| | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 | I am not doing a total restore. Don't know if I would even call it a running restore but seems a little better fitting. Since I will not be removing the cab I am starting to question if I should even bother touching the frame. The best I can to is spend tons of hours with a wire brush while on my back, etc. Since I am using ZR (hopefully Bruce Palmer will chime in) could I simple brush away the obvious loose particles of dirt and rust and then give the frame a quick spray?
My goal for this truck is to make it work well and then give it a nice paint job. I am really not that concern about how the frame looks but again, while I'm down there, what can I do with the minimal amount of work. Yes when the bed is removed during painting, I would have more access to the rear portion of the frame.
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 11 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 11 | I did take the cab off, had to needed to replace front of cab floors. I just wire brushed the frame good spent about 6 hours on it then used Eastwoods rust encapuslator. That should take care of the frame for the next 50 years. by then someone may want to put a new hitech frame under it. I'll be 113 by then and most likely the state will have taken my license. Good Luck
Rich
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 | Overpolishing the metal smooth, (burnishing) with a wirebrush actually gives the paint less to stick to. Zero Rust specs say to remove loose and scaly rust. Leaving a bit of a tooth for proper adhesion.
I have talked to people who made their rear end all smooth and the paint fell right off.
Spend a day degreasing and wirebrushing and paint'r up is my suggestion.
54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 | Tony M,
Since I've posted this I went back and studied ZR instructions some more and will lean towards what you are saying. During this phase, I'll do whatever I have easy access to. Later when the bed box comes off I'll have even more access. Finally I'll work my way towards the front while replacing my front axle assy. I see no reason not to just do the frame a little bit at a time. The underneath of the cab looks like a good candidate also.
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 | I banged on mine with a big grinder with a knotted cable brush just to knock off the bs, and then sprayed it with ZR. Just about 1 month ago, I had the truck to a body shop and they straightened the frame. Didn't seem to affect the paint as they just pulled it and didn't heat it. Much easier to paint with no box on it Bent frame before fixed | | |
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