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| | | | Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 152 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 152 | sorry if this is a daft question but i am finding it very difficult to rotate the engine to adjust the valves when its hot. is there a fix?
plugs out, in neutral, hand on fan blade and pull...nothing
it just appears to be too stiff to rotate by hand to alight the bb mark
ive resorted to taking the fan off so i can use a spanner levering on two bolts threaded into the dampener but this isnt really a good option for a truly hot engine adjust up...(my fan sits low and obscures the dampener when in place)
is it just me? need to eat more shreddies??
Last edited by Drmike; 05/11/2015 9:48 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Mine isn't that tight at all. However, from the front I use my right hand to push the fan blade clockwise and my left hand to tension the belt. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,846 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,846 | Put the transmission in top gear, and gently roll the truck forward to move the engine to the next set of valves that need adjusting. I use the "companion cylinder" method where I watch the valves halfway around the firing order from the cylinder I'm adjusting. The exhaust valve will be closing, and the intake will be opening when the other cylinder is at top dead center ready for adjustment. This is called "rocking". Here's the procedure:
#6 rocking, adjust #1
#2 rocking, adjust #5
#4 rocking, adjust #3
#1 rocking, adjust #6
#5 rocking, adjust #2
#3 rocking, adjust #4
This assures each cylinder is exactly at the top of the compression stroke, with the camshaft lobes on the base circle.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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| | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 | http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/valveadjustment.htm I use a 2-3' 1"X1" board,to turn the engine over. place the board between the firewall,and starter button. I find a halfway comfortable position,to "sit",to find T.D.C.,of the pistons,(thumb over hole),while simultaneously pulling on the 1X1 "lever".(Board is anchored by starter button),to "bump" the engine over,using the starter. just rotate engine enough to feel the air escape. If it rotates any farther,you need to start over. It needs to be set at T.D.C.Just make sure truck is in neutral,and the key is "off". It took me about a 1/2 hour,(from removing the valve cover,to replacing it, after the truck got to operating temp. Two rotations to adjust all the valves! SWEET! Thanks,OLY!!
Last edited by wetwilly5757; 05/12/2015 3:15 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 | FWIW I use my hand crank.
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Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,298 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,298 | Don't they have Wheaties in Japan?  (I don't know what shreddies are.) I haven't ever had trouble turning over a warmed up engine. It has usually been easier. What is the condition of the engine? Recent rebuild? Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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