| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
2 members (jmoore, Cletus1950),
75
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,151 Posts1,057,007 Members48,460 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 15 | I took the rear fender off the bed and there was some banging going on to get the bolts out. Took off the rear wheel as well (including jacking it up to get wheel off).
The brakes worked prior to this process. Now the pedal goes all the way to the floor. Everything is so coated in rust and dirt, I wouldn't even know where to start to look for leaks, etc (plus my limited knowledge of drum brakes).
It is a 51-1 ton with drum brakes on all wheels.
Anyone have any ideas where to begin?
Thanks, James | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy J_Wade, everything fails eventually, but this failure probably has nothing to do with what you have been doing. First off check the master cylinder (under cab floor) to see if there is any fluid in it. You could also scoot around on your creeper under the truck and follow the brake lines checking for wet spots. We usually suggest a complete rebuild of the brake system for everyone's safety, new or rebuilt master cylinder and wheel cylinders, flexible and hard brake lines new brake return springs, linings and brake drums turned or new, you get the idea. Get back to us with what you find on your inspection. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,232 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,232 | If the rear wheel cylinders were raise above the master cylinder when you took the tires off, air could have entered the system at the wheel cylinders and all the fluid could run back to the master cylinder. If this did happen, one or both wheel cylinders are bad. If there is no sign of a over fill at the master cylinder, start following lines as already suggested till you find the leak. In this case, all the dust and dirt will work in your favor.
Joe | | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 15 | Thanks for the info! Yes, the rear wheel was raised above the master cylinder.
Going to be a stupid question but how do you check the master cylinder for fluid on this truck? I mean is there a fluid reservoir like on modern trucks or a fill hole somewhere? If there is no fluid, then I need to add fluid and then bleed the break system? If I need to add fluid, what kind of fluid does it need - regular brake fluid?
Re-man the rear brakes is on my list to do soon. I have been reading on how to perform it on this site. My concern is over knowing if the drum needs to be replaced and where to find parts.
Thanks, James | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | There is a round rubber plug on the floor on the drivers side. Pull that plug up & the MC reservoir is under there. Fill it with fluid & pump it a few times. Use DOT 3 brake fluid. The pedal should pump up. Then like the guys said crawl around under the truck & look for wet areas. Watch the bottom of the brake backing plates for fluid running out which will indicate leaking wheel cyls. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy J_Wade, the master cylinder with built in reservoir is accessed through the cab floor on the drivers side, there should be a rubber plug in the floor which you have to pry out, and then you can remove the cap. The cap will probably be metal with either a square or hex head, they can be exceedingly tight especially if they have not been taken off for years, good luck. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 15 | Thanks. Will take a look at it tonight/tomorrow and post what I find.
Floor is almost completely rusted away so it should be easier to find the reservoir. Guess that is good and bad at this point.
Any suggestions on removing the drum? Gentle taps with a hammer?
Really appreciate the information you guys provide.
Thanks, James | | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 15 | Checked it. Reservoir was bone dry. Filled it up and pumped the brake a few times. Brakes are very responsive now.
Looked under truck and found the rear passenger side drum looks wet on the back side. I think that is where the leak is as I couldn't find any others.
Thanks again for the info. I am sure I will have more questions once I start rebuilding the rear drums.
James | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I don't know if you have a hard copy of the manual, but here's a link to it online if you need it for reference. 1948-1951 Shop Manual
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 15 | Thanks for the reminder. Totally forgot about that manual.
Thanks, James | | | | | Joined: Jul 2015 Posts: 203 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2015 Posts: 203 | Is there a source for new drums for 1-ton trucks?
1953 GMC 1-Ton Pickup with 350 and 700R4
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 15 | I have not found one yet. Anyone else have any insight in to where to find new drums for 1-ton? | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 | Check your local truck stop. The mechanics there may be able to recommend a shop reline your shoes.
Ed
| | |
| |
| |