The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop What primer over Zero Rust Prep Step

What type of primer/sealer should be used over Zero Rust Prep Step? I plan to use an acrylic enamel for the final coat?

Thanks,

CAB

You need to find a manufacture whose paint won't react poorly to the acid you have left on the metal.
Otherwise I think you'll need a primer to cover the metal then another to cover it then another to build and cut... Or I think rustoleum will work if your into that.

The best brands don't play well with acids and if they do they aint cheap.
The acid can be neutralized (not with baking soda) but if you miss a spot your still screwed so that would be the place to get anal about the project if your going for a 'finished' look.

PrepStep isn't an acid, it's a rust converting metal conditioner - any primer should work over it, including Zero Rust, which is a good primer itself, or an epoxy primer .... what you use depends on what parts you're dealing with, what condition they're in [baby bottom smooth or rough like a frame], and what your long term goals are

Bill

In looking at their website, ZR shows no MSDS info on their Prep Step... While the powdered form of the Prep Step may not require an MSDS, the component makeup is essential to know if using another manufacturer's product. Without this info, I would be hesistant to use another manufacturer's paint product (House of Kolor, SPI, and possibly other epoxy primers are not compatible with certain "rust conversion coatings /metal prep's"). Based on this I would say to either use a Zero Rust primer product, or an epoxy that is compatible with rust conversion products. The Zero Rust paint line "appears" to be more of an industrial product. (alkyd based paints) This would have me leaning toward an automotive product line. PPG, as an example, has their own prep to use with their own epoxy. So in the end, perhaps identifying a good epoxy primer and then backing up a step to use one of that company's proven and compatible conversion/prep coatings would be the correct order here. (if you haven't already purchased the Prep Step)

All too often the "online recommendations" that are given on rust conversion coatings or metal preps do not take into account inter-product compatiblity or even discuss what the process will be topcoated with. This vital step will prevent paint adhesion failure down the road...

After painting this:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/29%20Tudor%20Sedan/29Afront.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/29%20Tudor%20Sedan/29Arear.jpg

....using H/K epoxy over a generous OWNER application of Ospho, (and me not knowing any better) some exposure to the sun...as in car shows... got the reaction going between the Ospho residue and the epoxy, to give some nice adhesion/lifting issues of the epoxy (circles appear). I'd never had any prior issues with this primer and now that I am aware of the incompatibility, I haven't had any issues since.

Several years since the original post. Does anyone have any additional comments and or experience as I'm in same situation as Christopher. I agree with MPandC that knowing what product line the painter would be using would have been valuable, however after a multi-year project I am only now selecting a painter.

This is exactly why you'll find that most painters won't touch something that's been started by the owner. Not knowing what has been done, especially when it comes to any acid residue that may have been left behind from a rust conversion, is a risk of delamination of the paint coating.. Been there, done that, once is enough.

So MPandC, what would you suggest I do to get this Zero Rust Prep Step bare metal truck ready for a painter? Would washing with a lacquer thinner be appropriate?

I would call them (Seal & Protect) to find out how to go about that.

They still don't have the MSDS for the Prep Step on the website, but they do have it for their other products. In one FAQ section, it advises to test some panels...


Brad

From Zero Rusts Official Distributors page...

"Partially rusted, partially painted surfaces: When repairing a deteriorated painted surface, total removal of old paint is preferred."

At which point you no longer need Zero Rust.

I will say they have very creative ad writers.

I suggest doing a survey of Quality restoration Sites and Forums and see just how many recommend or use the product in their work.

Lacquer thinner is not what you'd use as it leaves a residue.
In regards panel testing This Test may be of interest

I'd be the wrong person to ask as this is my Zero Rust Prep:

http://s5.photobucket.com/user/rmccartney/media/Metalworking/Picture026-2.jpg.html


But it's been my experience, just as CASO described above, that most of the manufacturer's of what I refer to as "short cut" products are very creative writers, very good at hiding MSDS sheets, and most hide that "spray a test panel" verbiage in their website as a disclaimer for when your paint job goes to schitt due to incompatibility with their product, despite "how great it works under paint". Pick your paint and contact that paint company's tech line and see what they say about using XYZ rust converter product with their paint. They will be more forthcoming (and honest) with the needed info than the makers of the miracle cures.

I used prep step with excellent results. The best bond is attained by not removing any of of the dried Prep Step with solvent or abrasion. Prep Step It is not a rust converter it is an etch that does not leave an acid residue. mixed in higher ratios, prep step applied with spray bottle and wire brushed dissolves light to modest rust down to bare metal. As you wire brush, keep surface wet and never let it dry. The longer the solution stays wet on the rusted area the more it softens the rust and the easier it is to remove. Once you think you have it, rinse with high pressure hose or pressure washer and while parts are still wet,spray Prep Step in its diluted form with a pump sprayer while parts hang in the shade so that the diluted solution does not dry too quickly and the final etch can occur. Once parts are dry ,no rust or oxidation will form on the metal for months! Parts left all one rainy winter hanging in a dry storage building showed virtually no signs of rust! If you have body panels sand blasted, take the panels directly to you work place,wear clean gloves, hang in shade and spray with diluted Prep Step immediately. If you are working in high humidity make arrangements with the sand blaster to spray the parts on site if possible. This is just one persons idea of what works for him. Like others have advised, it better to be overly cautious than to get in a hurry and make one big expensive mess. P.S mix Prep Step with warm water and be sure all crystals are totally dissolved before application!

thanks CASO for the link, I found that helpful as I'm removing the rust protection with heavy abrasive stripping disc. But in the link they mention to wet the area with the anti corrosive which activates and then rinse with water, will give that a go.

He was referring to Ospho but the principal applies to any acid or base.