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| | | Forums66 Topics128,072 Posts1,055,903 Members48,429 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1 | I've read about new latches and taking the bow out of the doors. But I'd like to know if anyone has some "must try" tricks to get the standard latches to catch good. Before I go for major surgery, I'd like to try the best re-hab I can find.
Thanks!
It's as old as me and still going
| | | | | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 1,271 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2003 Posts: 1,271 |
~~ Alan Horvath 1954 Chevy PickupSinging his praises in thePassing Lane | | | | | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 154 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 154 | Alan has a good post on this. I went with a slightly smaller rubber from Steele, still had problems on the drivers door, would close and latch by slaming but would not on a "normal" close. If you tried to just swing it closed it would bounce and not latch tight, but with the (new)strike removed the door would close properly keeping the correct body lines. I tried an after market latch, what a joke, unless I got a bad one it was way off. I purchase a good used one from Jeff at Bowtie Bits, solved my problem, seems the old latch ratchet serations and paw were worn down. You can repair by drilling the latch apart and building up the paw with weld and file it and serations sharper, but the used one worked Great-t-t. Zeke
The Amish Connection
51 Chevy 1/2 ton 5 window,Vortec hotrod, no horse
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