The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop rust removal by electrolysis

Hi everyone - New member here
I'm in the beginning stages of the restoration of my 67 International and I was reading about electrolysis rust removal, which is how I found this site.
I'm just interested in hearing from others who've tried electrolysis. I've never tried it before but by the looks of it, it seems like I should give it a try on this project.
I have almost everything set up to start. But my power source is a Miller "buzzbox" DC arc welder. I just tested the voltage on the lowest setting and it's about 68V. Some of the testemonials that I've read claim that an arc welder works, but then all of the data that i've read that gives any specific info on voltage suggests 12V to 25V. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks in advance

Streetiron Some good info on ERR at www.davidbradley.net/err.html

Opps....www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html

Thanks Eddie
I could have sworn that I read somewhere that a DC arc welder can be a good power source, but I can't find that article now.
I think I'll try a 4amp battery charger instead. I'm not sure I want to be nearby when an electrode with 68volts/40amps going through it gets plunged into an electrolyte solution.

I tried a method from the following link. Worked pretty good. My master cylinder was rusted inside, removed it all. Just washed it off with water little wire brush on the outside, dried it, primed and painted it. Bought a cheap battery charger from Harbor frieght.

http://www.nothingtodo.org/projects/norust.htm

I am using a dc welder in a tank that is about 500 gal to experiment for complete cab dunk. [cab tank is 7x7 foot by 6 ft deep] .Small parts; inner fender,grill shell,rad support have had welder set 40-48 volt, 20-60 amp flow depends on size of part and how close to annode.some parts rinse off to bare steel some still have black iron after 24-30 hours :confused: .Has anybody else done this size.I cant figure out why some parts come out bare steel yet others have patches of black iron :confused: .Would heat have anything to do with this? I am using sodium carbonate,with sheet steel for annode.

Winky - I think what you see is the bare steel that has had no oxidization and the 'black iron' [still steel actually black iron being a different material] where the oxydizing process had started corrosion, and the electrolysis 'fixed' the corrosion to iron oxide and sent it to the anode, changing the mineral makeup of the remaining steel - I've found either electrolysis or phosphoric acid both leave previously rusted areas black, unrusted areas 'shiney' steel color, whatever the actual mechanism!

sodium carbonate is the right stuff, and steel for the anode, tho stainless will last longer

Bill

Randy Baumann is in the process of updating this link. I'll forward it on to him and see if he's got any other ideas. Plus, I'm sure he can use some of what you all have here.

Peg

just pulled my cab [1940 1.5 t ] out of tank, has been in for 2 weeks with welder at 40 amps. all the rust turned black and washed off with a pressure washer.Not one speck of paint was left anywhere. Then sprayed it with phosphoric acid to stop the flash back to rust. All bare steel and just a few black spots where rust was heavy. Next cab is going in . This is the best thing I ever saw

That's sweet Winky!
Did it get the rust out of the cracks and seams and everywhere?
I have a bunch of rust that's starting to pile up in some spot welded seams, and it couldn't be reached with a sandblaster. Did your cab have any of that?

Here's some more good links on the subject. Most folks I know use a 12V auto battery.

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm#top

http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html

I've dabbled a bit with this and have been happy with the results. One comment I would make is to avoid using stainless for the electrode. The chromium in the stainless apparently enters the solution and converts it to extremely hazardous waste. Disposal then becomes a nightmare if you plan on complying with EPA regulations, and potential liability if you don't.
How about some photos?

I will check the seams real close, all I could see was bare steel when it came out of the tank.Will be back on it in a few days and will have some picts.

I've used this process on many parts of my '54. In my opinion if the part is very greasy (sp?) one should clean it first for best results. Also, the process is line-of-sight so to speak. The more electrodes (rebar) you use the more even the coverage. It seems to work faster with higher amps, I use two battery chargers at 20 amps each.

My Yahoo group has a file on electrolytic de-rusting and MANY files on sandblasting and how to do it RIGHT with low-pressure..
http://www.ammoman.com/sandblaster

Meaning you can crank it up and do thick steel frames or tune it down and do paint removal from a door skin if you like..

Also note that a gallon of Rustoleum "Rusty metal primer" will save your truck until its time for a real rustoration $22, a gallon of gloss black also $22

the metal SAVED? PRICELESS...

Im in the same boat at the moment..

Regards
Rob

I have sandblasted all kinds of stuff a bunch of trucks too. After seeing what electrolytic does, I would throw sandblaster away. No mask with air hose,no hood,no tyvec suit to keep grit out of your @## :mad: ,no fuel for air compressor,no 100 pound bags of expensive media,and forklift to move it all. Just dip it in turn on dc voltage and let it work by itself. Pressure wash when done,then phosphoric acid after washing to stop the flash back to rust.