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| | | Forums66 Topics128,014 Posts1,055,331 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | Got my 64 stripped down to naked cab,replacing rockers,cab corners,floor pans. Any tips from you Pros before I start welding? Thanks,Brian | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 55 Member | | Member Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 55 | I was going to scan the artical in a classic trucks mag, but can't find it. I replaced the floors, toe board,front fender to fire wall and kick boards on my (rust spot with a truck wrapped around it) 51 3100. It was a piece of cake, walk in the park. I started with a factory assembly manual. It showed all the spot welds and what goes where. I used a 1/4 drill bit to drill out the spot welds. I didn't drill all the way through, just enough to get the weld to let go. The most important thing to do is make sure the cab doen't tweek from lack of support. Weld a little at a time so as to not warp the metal. make SURE the door jam doesn't move. (check gap around the door. Tack the rocker in and check the door gap! Make sure the door gap is good before you make your final welds. Weld in small bits so the metal doesn't warp . check the door jam as you go. The guy in the magazine used clamps and angle steel to hold the door jam in place before removing the old rocker. Have fun. Did I mention to check the gap around the door?Wish you well ,O  | | | | | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33 | I'm getting ready to weld in a new flore but I noticed the cab sags about an 1 1/2 lower on the left side. I can't tell if it's an illusion, the current cab supports, or the frame. Any suggestions on what I should look for or how to level? I don't want to support the cab, weld in the floor and find out I made a mistake.
Thanks,
Sherod oh, its a 1950 3100.
Everything you know is wrong.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | First, you need to determine what's not level. Assuming your floor is flat, start measuring to the floor and comparing from side to side. Once you have the frame blocked and level, then check the cab mounts. They probably need replaced, but you can shim up the cab off the frame. If it's the cab itself, jack and block up the cab until it's square with the floor, too.
As long as your shop floor is flat and the frame is square with the floor, you can square the cab with the floor be measuring. Even if the shop floor isn't level, you can still get everything squared this way.
Fred 52 3600 69 C-10
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | Got my patch panels, some are not even close to fitting. I guess that's what to expect from people on the other side of the world stamping parts for a truck they have never even seen. Brian | | |
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