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| | | Forums66 Topics128,090 Posts1,056,026 Members48,432 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 15 | Do the water jackets for a 216 go from the block through the head? It looks like they do but mine are solid. The truck has been sitting for years with the fluids in it (previous owner). Pic below. engine pic | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | If yours are solid, they are clogged. Clean up the mating surfaces on the top of the block and the bottom of the head, and you should see the holes.
Look at the head gasket and you will see where the holes are located.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 15 | Thanks. That's what I thought. I was surprised at how solid they were. When I pulled the water pump there was some sludge/mildew from sitting but it wasn't completely solid. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | If they are so well-clogged, your block is probably full of solid matter ("crap"). You will want to try to wash/clean out your block.
I have found it useful to remove the drain-cock on the lower right driver's side of the block, and then use a stiff copper wire (10 or 8 gauge) to loosen up solid deposits around the rear of the block (often flushing from various angles).
Use that stiff copper wire from the front - the holes/opening for the water pump. Try to work the wire from both sides, all the way to the back of the block. Flush often from those holes.
This will be messy.
In my opinion, I think the clogging you describe is why many people have overheating 216/235/261 engines.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 15 | I was able to clean the head fairly easy. The block... Not so much. It's so solid that it looks like I'm going to have to drill them out. Messy and no fun.... But I'd like to save the motor since it's the original one. Thanks for all of the help! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | After I cleaned out a 1954 235 block, as I described above, with no thermostat the engine would not heat up to 160 degrees idling in the garage.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 | That 48 head has the pressed in nozzles to direct coolant to the backside of the valve seats. I would imagine they were prone to clogging, hence their discontinuation shortly after 1948. Just my guess, since it appears that GM killed everyone with any real knowledge about these trucks, upon termination or retirement (another one of my guesses  ). Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 57 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 57 | if it is real bad i usually remove the soft (freeze) plugs and scrap and dig with water blasting thru it till it runs clear and nothing else can be scraped out..then after re-installing the plugs use a chemical flush. then add good coolant with rust inhibitor | | |
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