The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Rear Axle Spring Fitting

Ok... so we have our truck completely apart and ready to begin modifications. We have a 53 1/2 ton. We pulled the rear axle and plan to replace the pumpkin and housing with a 55 version to get away from the torque tube setup. With that, I know we need to modify the suspension. Do you guys recommend just welding the pivot points on the axle/spring connections or replace with different suspension setup?

If we weld, what is the best place/method to lock the pivot?

If we replace, what would you guys recommend?

Dad and Son are neck deep into our first project, having fun but know the pain already of doing things twice because the first try was wrong.

Thanks,

Dad and Son

If you are using the '55 housing there is no need to weld anything. The welding is for when one puts the later pumpkin in a torque tube housing.

Ideally, you need the '55 first springs. The mounting holes in the '53 springs are forward of the center of the springs. The '55.1 springs have the hole almost centered. I have read of people drilling new mounting holes and I have read of people mounting the springs reversed. The latter will move the axles aft of the stock location.

Here is something to chew on.
Alignment Solution for Installing a Late Model Rear End in a 1947-1954 Pick Up

Also 1955 Chevrolet Truck 1st Series Vehicle Information Kit--- Rear Suspension, PDF page 83, sheet page 140
1955 Chevrolet 1st-Series 1/2 ton truck had open driveshaft, on same frame as 1951 1/2 ton truck.

Why do you want to get rid of the torque tube?

The original 47-54 wheel is forward of center in the wheel opening of the fender.
Is the wheel centered in the center of the wheel opening of the fender on original 55.1 trucks?
Carl

No, it sits forward in the same position as the earlier ones. The difference in the mounting hole locations is due to the hinged mounts attach forward of the axle and the '55.1 mounts are under the axle.

1947-54 Chevy 1/2 ton truck
Spring Seat 1 and Spring Seat 2 is sitting on top of the leaf spring bolt.
The bolt runs all the way through the the stack of leafs.
The bolt and the stack of leafs are forward about 2 to 3 inches.
The leafs are centered under the spring seat.
The axle is centered over the top of the top mono/main leaf.

Guys: If I understand the consensus, I should reverse my rear springs and mount my '79 Firebird rear axle below my reversed springs (leafs) to get a centered wheel in the rear fender opening? Originally weren't the leaf springs mounted above the original axle?
My Firebird has a 2.73 posi rear end and will be connected to a 700R4 for efficient and economical mpgs. Comments, please!
54CarryAll

This is a Chevrolet 1955 1st series rear end suspension.
Pic 1
pic 2
pic 3
The Leaf spring is under axle.
That is how to mount your '79 Firebird rear axle.

Why are you removing the torque tube set-up?
There are high speed ring & pinion gear sets available for those axles. Click here

Thank you for the all the feedback.

The reason for the change is really due to the transmission change we have to make. To run the newer transmission, we need to update the drive shaft and thus the rear end.

The goal was to use the pumpkin out of a 55 truck and use the 53 axles to retain the stock stance. unfortunately, we did not get the springs out of the 55 from which we took the pumpkin.

So we still have the 53 axle and the 55 axle. To retain the stock stance, what is the recommendation for which one to use? 53 seems easiest to use and just weld the pivot points on the spring seats. If so, what is the recommended way of welding or immobilizing that joint?

If the 55 is recommended to use then I from what a read, I need to flip the springs front to back and mount a spring perch on the axles to match up to the springs...correct?

Thank you for all the help and the links.

Dad and Son