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Picutre
Picutre

OK this picture is kind of hard to see details, but you can get a good look at the outline.

Picture


May the force be with you - SoloWookie
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I'd say someone was using copper plated #5's in the ol' scatter gun at close range grin


Deaner
1950 Chevy 3600 Stake Bed

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What's up with all the holes!! If you drilled the holes to pull a dent that is not the way its done. You need to get inside and work it out.

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Laughin at Deaner but that is what it looks like. Hey Solo call your insurance agent and tell him it was a driveby!!! you made it look like that pic of the floor in the stovebolt!! Good luck to ya!! On this one Solo I dont have a clue as how to tell you to fix it

alan


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I could have gotten inside and worked it out, but I would have had to take the fender off. I wanted the practice of pulling a dent, and so I decided to pull this one.

as far as filling in the holes I'll just use a solder.


May the force be with you - SoloWookie
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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It's not a joke from Deaner. I found my '54 Suburban in a farm field in 1970. It was being used as a farm vehicle and, it seemed, as a moving target. The birdshot pocked the windows but did not hurt the metal much (must have been long range - maybe a feudin' neighbor). There was only one dent in the metal (from a 22).

Tim

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How do you plan to seal the inside?


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I wasn't aware I needed to seal the inside, but unless it was a restore project I don't think I'd worry about it. I'll probably destroy that fender off-roading long before the rust will.


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Than why fix it??
Go to your local pull-a-part and get a straight one for 20 bucks, half hour to change it and get the primer gun fired up.

53 GMC CHOPPED N SHAVED

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True on the 4x4-ing and damaging it. Just make sure to keep the flimsy aluminum components underneath well guarded against rocks,logs and small cars! eek grin

Mjr. Crash,,,, I believe he is practicing fo his AD project!


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Wookie--

I'm hesitant to criticize because it appears u are doing something but down here in the flatlands we take body panels off and knock the dents out. Those holes--looks like swiss cheese weaken the fender and are gonna require some kinda treatment from the other side to stop rust.


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yea, so far the common concensus seems to be to treat it from the other side, but hey thats what I'm doing this for. I want to screw this thing up so I've got that much more experience under my belt before I tackle the real project.

that is an aweful lot of holes in one place, but as I got into it I couldn't see any way to pull this without making more holes.


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solowookie, If you have any other dents to pull and either do not wish to remove panel or they are in a inaccessable area you could try this. We use fender shim, ( look like a horseshoe) you can tack weld the two open ends to the dented or creased area and use your dent puller with a hook on it to work dent out. Then when you get the dent or crease worked out as much as possible then you carefully grind shim and weld back off and do your body work. According to dent it may require more than on shim to remove it. Goodluck Solo and hopefully the things you learn from this project will help you in later projects. smile

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would these fender shim's be what they use to shim the door openings to adjust them at the body shop? I think I know what you are talking about, and that is a pretty good idea.

the more time goes on the more I think I'm going to need a mig PDQ, and lots of practice.


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Or use a stud gun to weld on pins to pull with a slide hammer...


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Stud gun could work too, but their over $300 dollars. I tried a stud gun on a crease on the driver's side cowl panel, it had a crease where door must have hit sometime. We used stud gun with puller but all it did was pull the studs off without pulling dent. They seem to work fine on thinner gauge metal but not as well on heavier stuff. smile

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It is all in the artfulness of the tool holder!


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Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!

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